Comte Georges de Vogüé and Bonneau du Martray are two very good Burgundy producers. They are both domaines, i.e., produce wine from their own vineyards. Both are rated *** by Clive Coates, which is his highest producer rating, and he has given this rating to a total of 17 producers, out of several hundreds in his tome The Wines of Burgundy. These two producers also share the same Swedish importer, Tryffelsvinet (which translates as “The truffle pig”).
de Vogüé is the largest vineyard owner in Musigny, which is the vineyard which generally gives the most elegant and perfumed red grand cru wines of Burgundy. This naturally means that they are accompanied by a large-size price tag. (The even more expensive grand cru wines from some vineyards of Vosne-Romanée are counted as “the most complete” by being both elegant and powerful at the same time.) de Vogüé also owns other vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny. One aspect of this producer is that their Musigny wine is called Musigny Vieilles Vignes – “old vines” – with the result that a rather large proportion of the harvest from Musigny (vines under 25 years of age) are down-classified to Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru and sold at about one-third of the price of the Musigny. Their Chambolle-Musigny (“village level wine”) in its turn, actually consists of a substantial portion of wine from their smaller plots of premier cru vineyards. An extensive and very good profile of de Vogüé can be found over at Burgundy-Report, written by Bill Nanson. In summary, these are really wines in my taste, which is to say red Burgundy at its most elegant. This extra flowery and perfumed style of Pinot Noir, in combination with excellent balance, never seems to be fully achieved anywhere else. However, balanced New World Pinot Noir wines, such as high-class New Zealand wines, can more successfully compete with the more spicy style of red Burgundy, represented by e.g. Nuits-Saint-Georges and Pommard.
Quite regularly when a new vintage is released, we get a visit in Sweden by de Vogüés director of marketing Jean-Luc Pépin, and a tasting arranged by the importer.
Bonneau du Martray is a rather “simple” producer by only owning vineyards on the Corton hill, and by only producing two wines: a white Corton-Charlemagne and a red Corton. As far as I know they are unique in Burgundy by only involving themselves with grand cru wines. It is their white wine that made them famous and which accounts for the largest part of the production. Bonneau du Martrays Corton-Charlemagne is probably the cheapest (least expensive) grand cru that both come from a producer that has been rated *** by Clive Coates and from a vineyard likewise rated ***. Corton-Charlemagne produces slightly more steely and firm wines than the other white grand cru vineyards of Côte d’Or.
Nose: ripe yellow apples, other yellow fruit, some citrus, floral hints, some oak barrel notes, rather powerful and elegant nose, and with a “cool” impression.
Palate: medium+ bodied, slightly viscous impression, ripe citrus fruit, strong mineral notes, high acidity. Citrus-fresh aftertaste with grapefruit and strong mineral notes.
Young! Pure and elegant aromas, but the oak notes are rather obvious and not fully integrated at present. It improved by giving it time in the glass, and then developed more perfume and aromatic oil notes, as well as showing more true grand cru complexity. It should have good potential, but I think it needs time (2018-2020?) to really peak, although another 2-3 years could make it more accessible. 92+ pts.
Nose: ripe yellow fruit – peach, apple, citrus – noticeable flowery aromas with white flowers and some perfume, some honey, spice and aromatic oils. Very elegant.
Palate: full bodied, rather oily/viscous, quite spicy, good mineral notes, yellow apples and some winter apples, a hint of bitterness. Long mineral aftertaste.
Fully developed, but can definitely be cellared more. Lovely with a mature white grand cru directly from the producer. 93 pts
We now move over to the red wines.
Medium red colour.
Nose: rather ripe cherries, some dark berries, a faint touch of tar and balsamico, slightly aromatic and flowery, hints of zest, slightly spicy, well integrated oak barrel aromas. Elegant.
Palate: slightly more than medium bodied, cherries and other red berries, overall a sour berry impression, noticeable acidity, spicy, mild and well integrated tannins. Aftertaste with berry aromas, again sour berries, with some adstringency.
Young, rather approachable. 89+ pts
Medium red colour.
Nose: ripe, rather dark cherries, some tar, noticeably spicy with the mixed spice impression of a spice shop, rather aromatic and perfumed, some dried orange zest, well integrated oak barrel notes. Quite elegant.
Palate: more than medium bodied, quite good concentration of fruit, red berries, very strong mineral note, slightly viscous impression, well integrated medium tannin. Strong mineral notes in the aftertaste, almost salinity.
Slightly more concentration and slightly darker aromas in the nose compared to the previous wine, but a very clear step up in class and elegance. The mineral note definitely sets this wine apart. In my opinion, this wine is definitely up to grand cru standard. Young, somewhat approachable. 93+ pts
Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2003
Medium red colour, slightly more compact than all three 2010s.
Nose: partially dried red berries: cherries and strawberries, powerful nose, quite spicy and with balsamico notes, dried mild spices, very faint hints of volatile acidity, the oak is barely noticeable.
Palate: more than medium bodied, rather sweetish attack, concentrated red currants, some straberries and a hint of dark berries, rather noticeable tannins, balancing acidity.
Deviates style-wise from the others, not quite as elegant. On the other side, this has been true for all 2003 Burgundies I’ve tried during the last year or two. They are good Pinot Noirs but are hardly recognisable as Burgundies if you place a more “normal” vintage next to them. This wine does not feel quite mature yet, based on the tannins. 90+ pts?
Medium red colour.
Nose: ripe, rather dark cherries, very noticeable perfume notes with violets, spice, mineral, some animal notes with wet fur, very well integrated oak barrel notes. Extremely elegant.
Palate: full bodied(-), great concentration of fruit with cherries and ripe strawberries, viscous mouth feeling with oiliness, strong minerality, well integrated acidity, medium(+) tannin.
The nose is much more elegant and perfumed and more “complete” than that of the premier cru wine, the palate is more full-bodied and more viscous. Young, but complete and elegant already at this stage. 95+ pts, but my score is to some extent influenced by me being careful when scoring long-lived wines when young. I’m sure there are those that would go higher without hesitating…
Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1998
Medium red colour, lighter at the edge.
Nose: slightly sweetish note of rather dark berries: cherries, wild raspberries and some blueberries, some citrus, rather noticeable spice, balsamico, developed notes with hints of leather and some volatile acidity. Elegant.
Palate: sweetish attack, rather concentrated red berries but the berry/fruity notes are not in the foreground in the taste profile, spice, faint alcoholic hints, very mineral mid-palate, medium tannin. Mineral aftertaste with some tannin.
Shows class on the palate with fine minerality, but is not as elegant as the 2010s in the nose. Rather ready to drink. 92 pts
The 2010 Burgundy vintage again showed a consistent style, with good ripeness but not quite as dark berry notes as 2009, and a quite good acidity that provides balance. In most cases there are also elegance and mineral notes. The vintage is thus more classical and firm than 2009, and will definitely be very long-lived. The red 2010s are also more charming and approachable than the 2008s were at the same age. One thing that might be worth pointing out, is that it is likely that many 2010s will go through a closed phase.
The Swedish version of this post can be found here.