Mixed Burgundy and Champagne

A Swedish dealer selling mostly French wine (Franska Vinlistan, “The French Wine List”) invited to a tasting of some Burgundies they are currently selling, many of them reasonably priced. All of the Burgundy producers were new acquaintances to me. Two Champagnes were also included, and this is something of a speciality of this dealer, since they (or technically a sister company) is the Swedish importer of many of the well-known small grower Champagnes such as Selosse and Léclapart.

Franska Vinlistan 20130917

Champagne

Legras & Haas Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2007
100% Chardonnay

The nose is bready with strong notes of waxed green apple, citrus, white flowers, mineral and some smoke. The palate is dry and medium bodied, with green apple, citrus, good acidity, mineral with a hint of bitterness (of the “earthy” type), and the aftertaste is dominated by green apple. Fresh style, young, but drinks rather well now, 88(+) p.

An elegant and fresh aperitif-styled Champagne, that should also work well with lighter seafood dishes. Not that powerful for a vintage Champagne, but sold at an attractive price.

Vilmart Grand Cellier d’Or Premier Cru 2008
80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, the base wine has been 10 months in small oak barrels.

Nose with citrus including zest, ripe peach, perfume notes, a hint of honey; very elegant. The oak notes are in evidence by some smoke but the oak is well handled and embedded in the other aromas. Medium bodied+, palate with green and yellow apples, citrus and mineral, high acidity, some oak feeling and an aftertaste with green apple. Young, should be allowed to mature. The nose is wonderful already, but the palate is not too complex at present. I’m sure it will be worth the wait. 90+ p.

Vilmart produces rather powerful Champagnes with some oak, and the combination of that style and the wonderful 2008 vintage is not to be missed. Well, at least I’m not missing it. This is their basic vintage Champagne; the 2005 is the most recent release of Vilmart’s top wine Cœur de Cuvée. I’ve sometimes heard Vilmart called “the poor man’s Krug”. I don’t really agree with that if it’s supposed to refer to their range as a while, but this 2008 at least shows some Krug character in the nose.

White Burgundy

Domaine Daniel Seguinot Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2012
100% Chardonnay

Nose with ripe yellow fruit with some yellow plums and possibly hints of banana, some smoke, and hints of perfume. The palate is definitely dry with some green apples and citrus, but a dominating minerality with chalk and gravel pit, and a tiny hint of bitterness. Young, but works rather well now, 87 p.

The nose gives a somewhat hot impression, but the palate is completely classical.

Domaine Christophe Buisson Saint-Romain, Sous Le Château Blanc 2011
100% Chardonnay

The nose indicates classical white Burgundy with oak, and shows yellow plum, yellow apple, and some perfume notes with white flowers. Palate with green and yellow apples, some citrus, noticeable mineral, god acidity, aftertaste with mineral. Rather young, but drinkable now, 89 p.

Similar to many 2011s, this wine is rather accessible already. A good village-level wine, i.e., a clear step up from good “regular” Bourgogne blanc. Those Côte de Beaune villages that are located in side valleys and don’t have any grand cru villages, such as Saint-Romain and Saint-Aubin, get less attention, but on the white side I still think that they are able to deliver good wines at the village level. The price level for the same quality is usually a little lower than in the more famous neighbouring villages Puligny, Chassagne och Meursault.

Domaine Bernard-Bonin Meursault Premier Cru Charmes-Dessus 2011
100% Chardonnay

The nose indicates classical better white Burgundy with oak and it has the nose a premier cru should have. I find ripe citrus, yellow apple, yellow plum, mineral, oak (with hints of the actual wood, i.e., some oak board), strong perfume notes and aromatic oil; a big nose. Concentrated on the palate, full bodied-, noticeable mineral with chalk and gravel, slightly “earthy” bitterness, spice, high acidity and a long mineral aftertaste. Young, should preferably be allowed some development, 91(+) p.

Red Burgundy

Domaine René Lequin-Colin Bourgogne Rouge 2011
100% Pinot Noir (screw cap)

Light to medium red colour. Young fruity nose with cherries, spice, very light flowery notes. Light on the palate, fruity notes with cherries, lingonberries, good acidity, mineral notes, some cranberry bitterness. Young, drinks OK now, 83 p.

A light-styled wine, but has a genuine Burgundian nose. Actually slightly darker berrry notes than the next wine.

Domaine Sylvain Dussort Bourgogne Rouge 2011
100% Pinot Noir

Light red colour. Fruity nose with strawberries, cherries, some herbs, hints of spice and oak. Rather light on the palate, raspberries, cherries, good acidity, some tannin. Young, works now, 84 p.

Slightly lighter berry notes than the previous wine, but a more juicy palate.

Domaine Gille Côte de Nuits-Villages 2007
100% Pinot Noir

Light- to medium red colour, faded edge. Nose with raspberries, cherries, some herbs, some spice, some animal notes, and hints of balsamico. The palate is medium bodied-, with raspberries, cherries, good acidity, mineral, a hint of spice, a hint of bitterness, and medium- tannins. Still comes across as rather young, just some hints of maturity in the nose, 85 p.

Rather light for a wine from Nuits, but seemed younger than I had thought since 2007 is considered a vintage that matures fast. It would be good to allow the wine a few more years of cellaring if one has the possibility. Pleasant though with a wine in a modest price range that can be purchased when it already has a few years of extra cellaring.

Domaine Arnoux Père & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Pimentiers 2010
100% Pinot Noir

Light red colour. Nose with cherries, raspberries, a hint of oranges, mineral (this note developed in the glass), slightly flowery. The palate is medium bodied- with raspberries, cherries, mineral, very noticeable acidity. Young and fresh, 87(+) p.

A lighter style, but fresh and clearly elegant. The wonderful vintage character of 2010 – high acidity, mineral, pure notes, elegans – is much in evidence. Those that like lighter Burgundies (and there is no reason not to, unless you’re an unrepentant consumer exclusively of overalcoholic or jammy wines) should like this.

Domaine Arnoux Père & Fils Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts 2011
100% Pinot Noir

Nose with rather ripe strawberries, some oranges, discretely perfumed notes. The palate is medium bodied(-), fruity, with good mineral notes and medium(-) tannins. Rather young, 87(+) p.

Slightly foodier and more accessible than the Savigny 2010, which on the other hand is more fresh.

Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Les Longeroies 2011
100% Pinot Noir

Light red colour. Nose with ripe strawberries, noticeable mineral, a hint of spice and oak, rather elegant. Medium bodied, palate with strawberries, noticeable mineral, good acidity. Fresh and mineral-driven style. Young, but drinks well now, 88(+) p.

A bit more substance than the two previous wines. Not a powerful wines in terms of tannins but it does show considerable freshness.

Domaine Henri Delagrange et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2011
100% Pinot Noir

Medium red colour. Mineral-dominated nose, also with raspberries and cherries, some spice and oak notes, a hint of animal notes, clearly elegant. Medium bodied, mineral-dominated palate with very fine mineral notes, strawberries, good acidity, medium- tannins, mineral aftertaste. Young, 90+ p.

Definitely the most mineralic of the red wines, almost a 2010 vintage style, and showing the rather light tannins that are usually only found in Volnay among premier crus.

Domaine Gille Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Les Cailles 2009
100% Pinot Noir

Light to medium red colour, somewhat faded edge. Fruity nose with ripe strawberries and cherries, spice, some perfume and aromatic oil, hints of dung heap and animal notes. Shows a bit of the hot vintage character. Palate with ripe strawberries, hints of oranges, mineral notes, good acidity, medium(-) tannin, spice. Good balance, rather young, but drinkable now, 89(+) p.

Knowing what to look for, the 2009 style is evident in the wine, but it is a 2009 with good acidity. Tame tannins for a NSG premier cru from a good vintage, and doesn’t really show anything of the somewhat “rustic style” that NSG is commonly associated with, which could be due to the vintage.

Compared to the average style in the region, this selection of red Burgundies showed rather much mineral notes but less tannins. In particular premier crus can be noticeably more tannic than those here. Perhaps it is the “Champagne taste” of this dealer comes through also in the Burgundy selection?

The Swedish version of this post can be found here.

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This entry was posted in Burgundy, Chablis, Champagne, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir. Bookmark the permalink.

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