I recently retasted three Chablis 2012s from the excellent producer Patrick Piuze thanks to the Swedish importer Caviste, who sold them already in September this year. When I tasted them at the launch, and then they had been in bottle for only about a month, they came across as slightly hard and closed-down. (The September tasting never resulted in an English blog post, but suffice it to say that I scored them a little lower than I expected from Piuze wines.) At that time, I think the only “2012 Chablis” I had tasted were two Petit Chablis, so I didn’t really know what to expect from the vintage. After some additional encounters with 2012 Burgundies over the last couple of months – bottled or barrel samples – it seemed that my in inital contact with the 2012 Piuze wines was not really representative of the vintage. Therefore it was very interesting to note that at the retasting, just under three months after the initial tasting, the wines had changed significantly, and now corresponded to what I would expect from a good producer in a good vintage, although we’re still talking about young wines.
Just one comment about vinification: the premier cru wines (as well as the grand crus, but none of those were tasted here) are raised 10 months in old oak barrels, so they do have a discrete oak influence.
Chablis Terroir de Chablis 2012
Nose with green apple, some yellow apple and citrus, slightly flowery with hyacinths. Very dry on the palate, green apple, grapefruit and other citrus fruits, rather good concentration, high acidity. Rather young, approachable now, 88 p.
Quite good and surprisingly flowery for a village-level Chablis, and very citrus-dominated.
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons ”Les Minots” 2012
Nose with mineral and character of stone and chalk dust, muted apple notes with some baked apples, some citrus, slightly flowery and perfumed. Palate with pronounced minerality, green apple, good concentration, good acidity, long and mineral-dominated aftertaste. Young, reasonably approachable now, 90(+) p.
Slightly more lean and elegant than Les Forêts. To me, this was the best of the three wines, but the reason for this could be that Les Forêts is behind in its development.
Chablis Premier Cru Les Forêts 2012
Nose with mineral, stony notes, yellow apple, citrus, some spice, and a hint of oak. Palate with yellow apple, good concentration of fruit, high acidity, some spice, aftertaste with citrus and mineral. Young, somewhat approachable now, 89+ p.
The most powerful and foody wine of the three. It would be beneficial for the wine if the oak notes were given time to integrate better, and this wine hasn’t improved as much as the previous two since September. Since the two premier crus are vinified in the same way, I see the oak barrel note as an indication that this wine is a bit “closed down”, and I’m fairly certain that it will improve significantly. It might catch up with Vaillons already in a quarter or two.
Swedish version here.