Alsace wines from Michel Fonné

Michel Fonné is an Alsace producer located in Bennwihr (village profile at Per Warfvinge’s Alsace website including some words on Michel Fonné, general Wikipedia article) and has 12 hectares/30 acres of vineyards. After oenologist training and some work in other wine regions, in 1989 Michel Fonné took over a small domaine from his uncle René Barth, then 5 hectares in size. In 1997, 7 hectares from his father was added, where the grapes had been vinified by the local cooperative. From 2002, Michel Fonné has vinified all grapes from his 12 hectares. His vineyards includes plots in the two grand crus Mambourg and Marckrain, as well as two other vineyards that (without being grand crus) are considered good enough to be mentioned at the labels: Roemerberg and Rebgarten.

The wines are of good quality and the style is fruity, which as often is the case means that some residual sugar can be found in primarily the Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer wines. Since Michel Fonné pleasantly uses the sweetness scale (1-9) on the back labels, the level of residual sugar of the wine doesn’t need to come as any surprise. This scale has become more common to see on Alsace bottles. For a picture of the scale, see the blog post about Pierre Sparr, a producer that also uses the same scale.

By the way, don’t confuse Michel Fonné with Meyer-Fonné, another Alsace producer located in Katzenthal.

Michel Fonné 20140127

Crémant d’Alsace NV
70% Pinot Blanc, 30% Pinot Noir, at least 18 months on the lees. Sweetness code 1 = completely dry.

Nose with ripe yellow apple, bread, some citrus and some mineral. The palate is dry, medium bodied and creamy with yellow apple, good acidity and some mineral. A good Crémant with a fruity palate and good balance. The nose is rather Champagne-like, but the palate isn’t. 86 p

2012 Pinot Blanc Tradition
Sweetness code 2 = almost dry.

Nose with apple, some perfume, and some mineral. Rather dry on the palate (but not completely dry) with a fruity impression of apple and medium+ acid level. Simple but pleasant in style. 84 p

2012 Riesling Tradition
Sweetness code 1 = completely dry.

Nose with apple, peach, and some perfume. Completely dry palate with apple, citrus, good acidity, and some mineral. 86 p

2011 Riesling Rebgarten
Sweetness code 2 = almost dry. Old vines.

Nose with apple, rather ripe peach, mineral, and some petroleum. The palate is rather dry (but not bone dry), with peach, apple, good acidity, some mineral, rather good concentration, and more mineral in the aftertaste than mid-palate. Drinks well now, 88 p.

2012 Pinot Gris Tradition
Sweetness code 2 = almost dry.

Nose with apple and with a discrete perfume note. The palate is rather dry but still with some residual sweetness, ripe apple, some apricot, good acidity, and a hint of spice. Young, 87 p.

2012 Gewurztraminer Tradition
Sweetness code 3 = off-dry minus.

Nose with rose petals, lychee, perfume, yellow fruit and some honey. Palate with a bit of residual sweetness, yellow fruit, some honey, and medium acidity. 86 p

2011 Pinot Noir Tradition
Sweetness code 2 = almost dry.

Medium red colour. Nose with cherries, some smoke and tar notes, and a hint of scorched almond. The palate is dry and medium bodied with cherries, some scorched almond, and medium tannins. A rather robust style. 86 p

2009 Pinot Gris Marckrain Grand Cru
Sweetness code 5 = off-dry plus (or perhaps semi-sweet minus).

Nose with apricots, other ripe yellow fruit as well as some dried fruit and some spice. The palate is off-dry(+) with good concentration, apricots, medium acidity, and spice. 89 p

2009 Gewurztraminer Marckrain Grand Cru
Sweetness code 4 = off-dry.

Nose with ripe yellow fruit, honey, some spice, a hint of mineral, and a discrete perfume note. The palate is off-dry(+) with honey, ripe and partially dried yellow fruit, some golden raisins, spice, and medium minus acidity. Rather much of a Vendange Tardive style. Drinkable now, 90 p.

Swedish version here.

This entry was posted in Alsace, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling. Bookmark the permalink.

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