Alsace wines from Albert Mann – mostly Gewürztraminer

Albert Mann is a wine producer from Alsace that is located in the village of Wettolsheim: producer profile at Per Warfvinge’s Alsace websitevillage profile by Per Warfvinge, general Wikipedia article about the village. Albert Mann is considered as one of the better producers in Alsace, but although the domaine and the families behind it have a long history in the region, it is only in recent years that the domaine has enjoyed its current reputation.

The domaine has 21 hectares/52 acres of vineyards that are farmed organically and biodynamically. The holdings in grand cru sites consist of 7 ha in five grand crus scattered over four villages: Schlossberg (in Kientzheim), Furstentum (also in Kientzheim), Steingrubler (i the home village of Wettolsheim), and Pfersigberg (in Eguisheim). One-third grand crus is definitely a high proportion, since about 5.4% of the total Alsatian vineyard surface is classified grand cru: 850 ha out of 15 600 ha.

The style of the wines produced by Albert Mann is concentrated and in the fruity direction, and tends to express themselves in the nose. Many of the wines, with the exception of some of the top wines, are sealed with screw caps.

At their website, I notice that they use a numerical scale (1-5) that they call Indice d’expression, to indicate the sweetness of the wines. Using my interpretation of their terms 1 = dry, 2 = almost dry (“dry style”), 3 = off-dry, 4 = semi-sweet, 5 = sweet. This looks like it could be the same scale as that used by Zind-Humbrecht. I’m not entirely sure if the number is indicated at bottles from Albert Mann, because I didn’t notice any. On the other hand, the number used by Zind-Humbrechts (“Indice” plus 1 to 5 in rather small print) is also easy to miss unless you search for it.

All five wines that I tasted were good, and confirmed the reputation of this producer. I had heard about them but I can’t really recall that I’ve actually tasted their wines before. Three of the wines I tasted were Gewürztraminers, and this included a spectacularly good Sélection des Grains Nobles from the grand cru vineyard Furstentum, which is also considered as the jewel in the crown of their vineyard holdings.

Albert Mann 20140127

Riesling Cuvée Albert 2012
Nose with peach, ripe fruit, some perfume, and stony mineral notes. The palate is dry and shows good concentration, with apple, peach, good acidity, and mineral. 88 p

Pinot Gris Cuvée Albert 2012
Nose with apple, spice, and a slightly aromatic impression. The palate is almost completely dry, with apricots, spice notes, and good acidity. 88-89 p

Gewurztraminer 2012
Nose with lychee, roses, and perfume. The palate is rather dry with mineral and good concentration. 89 p

Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Steingrubler 2011
Nose with lychee, perfume, mineral, and elegance. The palate is off-dry with powerful concentration, honey, medium acidity, and finishes with citrus. 90 p

Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum Sélection des Grains Nobles 2011
Nose with honey and spice notes. Sweet palate with powerful concentration, honey, some spice, and dried fruit. A big wine, 94 p.

Swedish version here.

This entry was posted in Alsace, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling. Bookmark the permalink.

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