I recently tasted some wines from Champagne Savart, presented by French-Swedish wine merchant Caviste (a.k.a. Martin), who also celebrated three years of online wine sales, with his late 2011 release of Savart being his first.
Savart is one of the new generation of high-class small growers in Champagne and is located in Écueil, a village in the northwestern part of the Montagne de Reims – “La Petite Montagne” – that is classified premier cru. Savart also has vineyards in the neighbouring village, Villers-aux-Nœuds. The Champagnes are Pinot Noir-dominated but very firm and mineral-dominated for their varietal composition, while simultaneously possessing quite a bit of fruit and “substance”. Purity of aromas and elegance are two other words that come to mind when describing Savart.
The 2012 (base) vintage shows itself from a really good side in these Champagnes, which is promising for future releases.
Champagne Savart L’Ouverture
100% Pinot Noir, Brut, dosage 7 g/l. The base vintage is 2012 (50%, supplemented with 25% 2011 and 25% 2010). Disgorged October 2014.
Fruity and apply nose with a lot of green apples and slightly flowery notes. Dry and rather firm but still fruity palate with a lot of green apples, some citrus, mineral notes, medium bodied and fresh, quite good acidity, and noticeably minerally aftertaste. Rather young, but drinks well now, 88-89 p.
L’Ouverture is less complex than L’Accomplie with its notes more focussed on green apples, but is very stylistically pure and fresh. Although a dominance of green apples usually brings Chardonnay and blanc de blancs to mind, we here find a more obvious fruitiness than what is found in many blanc de blancs. But I’m sure many would guess that this Champagne is clearly Chardonnay-dominated…
Champagne Savart L’Accomplie
80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, Brut, dosage 4 g/l, i.e., in reality an Extra Brut. The base vintage is 2012 (70%, supplemented with 30% 2011). Disgorged October 2014.
Nose with ripe and well-waxed green apple, slightly smoky, some flowery and perfumed notes. With time in the glass some oak notes also emerge. The palate is dry and firm, medium-bodied (+) with green apple, citrus, and a noticeable minerality, high acidity and an aftertaste with a noticeable mineral note. Young, but drinks well now, 89-90(+) p.
Slightly more powerful and complex than the L’Ouverture, with a hint of oak notes (that I didn’t notice first when the mousse dominated, but that could be felt when it had been allowed some time in the glass) and with more potential for development. Also here the green apples dominate, but there is also more citrus, and the minerality is definitelt more prominent and give some saline notes.
As a reference we also tasted a magnum of L’Accomplie, that wasn’t for sale:
Champagne Savart L’Accomplie (magnum)
Base vintage 2009, disgorged 2013.
Rather powerful apply nose with green-apply notes, some peach and other “deeper/more mature” fruit notes, and slightly herbaceous. Dry palate, fruity, definitely noticeable minerality, green apple, high acidity, aftertaste with quite noticeable minerality. Rather young, drinks well now, 90 p.
Compared to the current 75 cl release of L’Accomplie the main difference is the more ripe fruit notes, which means that it more obviously says “Pinot Noir”. I believe this is caused by the 2009 base vintage, which usually shows high ripeness but still excellent balance, rather than bottle size or a little extra time in the cellar.
The parcel containing the sample of the rosé was stuck in a terminal somewhere en route from France to Sweden. So we instead tasted a rosé from the 2012 release.
Champagne Savart Bulle de Rosé
82% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay and 8% red wine produced from Pinot Noir. 60% from the 2009 vintage and 40% from the 2008 vintage. Disgorged 2012.
Nose with red berries, wild strawberries, red apples, flowery notes and elegance. With time in the glass some oak and fudge notes emerge. Dry and firm on the palate, fruit notes of wild strawberries, red apples and citrus, powerful minerality, high acidity, a hint of spice notes, and aftertaste with mineral, citrus and red apple. Still rather young in my opinion, but shows fine nuances, 89-90 p.