Caviste’s selection from Labet only covers Chardonnay wines in ouillé style, i.e, wines produced without oxidation. This is what would be called “regular wines” (or not given any label at all) almost anywhere else than in Jura, where many wine styles have some oxidative notes or are produced under a yeast layer (voile) in the barrels. To me, these ouillé wines from Labet are clearly Chablis-like, and they show no obvious oak notes. Other than that, they are firm and elegant, like Caviste’s range in general.
By the way, one of the wines has a new name since last year, and two of the wines have labels of a different design. Three wines were shown, as well as the previous vintage of two of them.
2013 Cuvée Fleurs
Côtes du Jura, grape variety Chardonnay, 15 months in old oak barrels.
Nose with yellow apple, chalky minerality, a tiny hint of nuts and some “natural wine notes”. Dry on the palate, yellow apple, some citrus, slightly spicy, rather high acidity, and minerality. Young but drinks reasonably well now, 87-88 p.
The least Chablis-like of the three wines, but still not too unlike given its firmness.
2012 Cuvée Fleurs
Côtes du Jura, grape variety Chardonnay, 15 months in old oak barrels. Was part of last year’s release, tasted as reference.
Nose with yellow apples with notes of rather ripe apple, discrete nutty note in the background, and minerality. Palate with yellow apples, good concentration, an impression of ripe apples, and a mineral-dominated aftertaste with green and yellow apples. Rather ready, 88-89 p.
More apply nose than the 2013 Cuvée Fleurs, and a bit more Chablis-like.
2012 Les Champs Rouges
Côtes du Jura, grape variety Chardonnay, 12 months in 4-10 years old oak barrels.
Discrete nose with yellow and green apples, some citrus, and a noticeable minerality. Palate with green apples with quite pronounced minerality, some viscosity with a stont mouthfeel, high acidity, and aftertaste with mineral, citrus, and green apple. Firm and rather young, 89(+) p.
In terms of style, this wine is very similar to a good Chablis premier cru! 2012 is probably a bit more of a long-term vintage than 2011, which is a bit more hot in style.
This wine has both changed name and label since last year, and now carries the name of the vineyard (which is called “the red fields” despite the wine being white). It is the same wine as last year’s Fleur de Chardonnay. A bonus is that it is now less prone to being confused with Cuvée Fleurs.
2011 Fleur de Chardonnay
Côtes du Jura, grape variety Chardonnay, 12 months in old oak barrels. Was part of last year’s release, tasted as reference.
Nose with yellow apple, some citrus, noticeable minerality with a chalky impression and a discrete nuttiness in the background. Palate with yellow and green apples, pronounced chalky and stony minerality, some citrus, firm aftertaste with a lot of mineral and green apple. Young, but reasonably approachable, 89 p.
Chablis-like just as the 2012.
2011 Les Varrons
Côtes du Jura, grape variety Chardonnay, 22 months in old oak barrels.
Nose with citrus, some yellow apple, some clay, noticeable minerality; overall the nose gives a firm impression. Palate with pronounced minerality that is chalky and somewhat stony, green and yellow apples, some citrus, high acidity, good concentration with some viscosity to the mouthfeel, firm aftertaste with mineral. Young, drinks reasonably well now, 90(+) p.
There is good weight to this wine. The somewhat more ripe 2011 vintage is here handled quite well, without the firmness being lost, so it actually comes across as more 2012-styled. This wine is quite similar to a really good Chablis premier cru or a Chablis grand cru that hides its oak note quite well.