Dopff & Irion is a big Alsace wine producer with seat in Riquewihr (village profile at Per Warfvinge’s Alsace wine website). Some of the wines are sold under the name Domaine du Château de Riquewihr. They have 27 hectares (67 acres) of vineyards in the Riquewihr area, of which a bit more than a third in the grand cru vineyards Schoenenbourg and Sporen. They also have vineyards in the grand cru Vorbourg in the village Rouffach. They also purchase grapes to their wines at the basic level. The wines called Domaine du Château de Riquewihr på are produced from their own grapes.
I have the impression that this is a producer which has improved its quality in recent years. I did a short and “unplanned” visit to their cellar shop in Riquewihr when I was in Alsace in the summer 2011. We had some time before dinner and this was a place with a recognized name that was conveniently located and open. At this visit, I found the quality of the wines to be quite good, and higher than I expected. As I recall from that visit, the most impressive wines were the Rieslings. My impression from the wines tasted at the Alsace wine day in Stockholm at the end of January fits into that pattern.
Dopff & Irion shouldn’t be confused with Dopff au Moulin, a producer also located in Riquewihr.
Crémant d’Alsace Brut l’Egérie
The nose is smoky and rather fruity with a light note of wool. Rather dry palate, again som wool and almost a Chenin Blanc feeling, rather good concentration, 84-85 p.
The most common grape variety in Crémant d’Alsace is Pinot Blanc. A certain proportion of Chardonnay is fairly common, but pure Chardonnay bubbly is produced by far from all Crémant producers.
2013 Cuvée René Dopff Riesling 2013
The nose is slightly flowery and with peach notes. Rather dry palate with a lot of stony minerality and citrus, good concentration for an entry-level Riesling, good acidity, citrus fruity aftertaste with some grapefruit notes. 87 p
2009 Les Murailles Riesling
Domaine du Château de Riquewihr
Nose with some petroleum, mineral, ripe green apple, and some other fruit. Palate with good concentration, peach, and very stony minerality. Shows both some developed notes and a bit of the style of a hot vintage. 88 p?
By the way, last year I opened a 1973 Les Murailles. This definitely was a gamble since the fill level was OK but not perfect. Although the wine was clearly marked by age, it was still drinkable. I just wonder where I put my notes on that wine?
2011 Les Maquisards Pinot Gris
Domaine du Château de Riquewihr.
Nose with pear, ripe fruit, slightly flowery and candy-styled, and with a faint spicy note. The palate goes in the off-dry direction (3? on the scale 1-9) and is fruity with good concentration, rather good acidity, a slightly spicy notes, and a very faint bitterness. 87 p?
2013 Cuvée René Dopff Gewurztraminer
Noticeably flowery nose with lychee, some citrus, peach and tropical fruit. The palate goes in the off-dry direction (3? on the sweetness scale 1-9), medium acidity, fruity. 87 p?
2011 Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Riesling
Nose with some petroleum with stony impression, citrus, slightly flowery, more elegant than the rest. Palate with light residual sugar (2-3? on the scale 1-9) but mostly in a “dry style”, a lot of citrus, stony minerality, high acidity. Rather young with potential, 90(+) p.