Red Burgundies from Maison Ambroise

Bourgogne Wine Tour 20150210Maison Ambroise was one of the Burgundy producers I tasted when the 2015 edition of Bourgogne Wine Tour visited Stockholm in February.

Ambroise is located in the village Premeaux-Prissey in the Côte de Nuits, and if this village name doesn’t sound familiar it is because the village is a part of the appellation named after its more famous neighbouring village, Nuits-Saint-Georges. Ambroise has 21 hectares (52 acres) of vineyards farmed organically. My impression of their wine style is that it is rather traditional, powerful and going in the tough direction, with rather prominent tannins. With “traditional” I mean that some animal, herbaceous and spicy notes are present already in the young wines, and in this case the oak can also be somewhat felt. This impression is likely reinforced by the typical style of Nuits-Saint-Georges wines, that tend to go in the powerful and almost rustic direction. (Ambroise also produces some reds from appellations that tend to go in the more elegant direction, such as Vosne-Romanée, Échézeaux and Clos Vougeot, but I don’t have any experience of those wines.) This definitely doesn’t mean that the wines lack “polish”, but they don’t show Burgundy from its most silky side. I believe these are wines that may respond positively to cellaring, because they definitely have sufficient “stuffing” to take a long time in the cellar. Ambroise is also a producer I could recommend to those who so to speak prefers to have “a lot of wine” in their Burgundies.

My preliminary impression of the 2013 red Burgundies, based on a number of wines I tasted at this occasion (different producers showed different recent vintages), is that the vintage shows marked acidity, noticeable minerality and that many wines come across as somewhat “hard”, at least at present. Some wines are a bit more fruity, though. Of the four previous vintages (2009-2012) I’d say that 2013 reminds me more of 2011 than it reminds me of any of the other three. On average, there seem to be a bit more generous fruit in 2013 than in 2011 (but not as generous as in e.g. 2012), and I didn’t find any of the green notes that some 2011s show. But all of this is a preliminary impression rather than a final early verdict.

Wines tasted

2013 Bourgogne Rouge

Nose with some traditional notes, cherries, some spices notes and oak. Palate with rather good concentration, strawberries, some minerality, somewhat tough palate, good acidity. Approx. 85 p

2013 Côte de Nuits Villages

Nose with cherries, a bit of traditional notes, rather noticeable spiciness. Palate with rather good concentration, cherries, minerality, high acidity, rather noticeable tannins. Rather tough and young, 87(+) p

2013 Nuits Saint Georges

Nose with cherries, some balsamico?, a hint of traditional notes and some darker (berry) notes. Palate with cherries (rather dark ones), good concentration, good sweetness of fruit, some mineral, good acidity, and rather noticeable tannins. 88-89 p

2012 Corton Grand Cru Le Rognet

Nose with ripe cherries, a slightly flowery notes, spice with some oak. Palate with cherries, good concentration, some spice notes, and quite prominent tannins. Somewhat traditional and rustic, but with a lot of fruit. Young, 90(+) p

Swedish version here.

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