Thanks to the French-Swedish wine dealer Caviste, I have again tasted some wines from Beaujolais producer Georges Descombes. I’ve written about these wines two times earlier, the 2012s last year and the 2011s the year before. The latter blog post also includes some more info on Beaujolais in general.
This was my impression of the wines:
Rather fruity nose with cherries, reasonably dark berry notes, a hint of tar, hints of herbaceous and green notes, as well as a hint of stalky notes. Fruity but rather light on the palate, decent concentration of fruit and good acidity, a hint of spices and tannic bite, and an aftertaste with berries and tartness. Can be consumed young, 85 p?
So young that it is a bit difficult to evaluate next to the other wines. My impression is that 2014 comes across as a bit lighter and “simpler” than previous releases of Descombes’ Brouilly that I have tasted chez Caviste.
By the way, the 2014 was sold together with 2013s of the other wines because the 2013 Brouilly was already sold out from the producer.
2013 Régnie Vieilles Vignes
A berry-dominated nose with ripe red berries including cranberries, red currants and strawberries, and some flowery notes. The palate is berry-dominated with quite good concentration, slightly darker berry notes on palate than in the nose, including cherries, good acidity, some spice and tannic bite, and a berry-dominated aftertaste with some tannin. Easy to drink and good now, but can definitely be cellared, 88-89 p.
To me the most Pinot Noir-like of the three, and this seems to be how this wine shows in most vintages. It is the most elegant of the three, but the Morgon shows a more complex nose. Comes across as more accessible than the 2012 Régnie VV tasted last year.
2013 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
Nose with ripe cherries, rather dark berries, some tar, some spice noes, and discrete oak. More complex and with darker notes than the Régnie. A juicy palate with cherries with good acidity, spice notes, some tannin that lingers in the aftertaste together with tart and juicy berries. Rather young, can still be consumed now thanks to its juiciness, but should preferably be given time in the cellar, 89(+) p.
The most powerful wine of the three and the one most suited for cellaring, which is as it has been in previous vintages. At the same time I’d say this is a bit more of a typical Beaujolais/Gamay compared to the Régnie, i.e., it’s not as Pinot Noir-like.
Based on these two wines, 2013 seems to be a quite promising Beaujolais vintage! The wines have good concentration and good (but not excessive) ripeness, which means that they are not just juicy but also a bit more accessible than the 2012s were last year. I’d say there is some similarity to 2009, the wonderful vintage which made many of us discover modern high class Beaujolais wines, preferably without ”Noveau” in its name.
As a reference we also got to taste an older wine, not available for sale, which was served from a magnum covered in foil.
2009 Régnie Vieilles Vignes (magnum)
Nose with ripe cherries and some dark berries, hints of tar, spice notes and some oak, hints of animal notes and development, hints of mint and mineral in the background. Palate with quite good concentration, cherries, definitely high acidity, spice notes and some tar, rather well embedded tannins with a fine berry fruit and a berry-dominated aftertaste. Approachable now, but can take a lot more cellaring, 90 p.
I did think that this could be a 2009 wine, but my guess was that this was a Morgon, since I thought I found a similarity in the spice and oak notes. To me, this wine showed a more noticeable oak component than the 2013 Régnie VV.