Goisot – white wines from northwestern Burgundy

I recently tasted some white wines from Domaine Goisot, shown by Swedish-French online merchant Caviste. Goisot’s wines come from different appellations in the Grand Auxerrois, which is the area around Chablis in the northwestern part of Burgundy. Goisot is an organic and biodynamical producer, with a Demeter certification. This year Caviste showed two Chardonnays and one Sauvignon Blanc, but no Aligoté.

I missed out on these wines last year, but I did taste the Goisot wines shown by Caviste in 2013 and 2012, and wrote about them after the 2013 tasting. In that post I also wrote some  general information about the Grand Auxerrois.

Caviste Goisot 20150617

2013 Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula
Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc. One year on steel tanks.

Nose with apple, in particular green apple, peach, flowery notes and rather discrete Sauvignon notes. The palate is clearly dry, fruity with citrus, green apple, some Sauvignon notes, some mineral bitterness, and a high acidity. Definitely fresh, young but approachable now, 88 p.

The nose is almost a bit Riesling-like rather than filled with the green notes often shown by Sauvignon Blanc, and it shows some “deeper” fruit notes with stone fruits rather than just green apples and citrus. The explanation is that the grapes were harvested late, but the wine still has all the freshness it needs. I notice my previous notes from Goisot Saint-Bris wines also include perfume and “Riesling-like”, so this seems to be a consistent style. From my impressions of 2013 Burgundies so far, I wouldn’t say that a ripe style is particularly typical for the vintage.

2012 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Corps de Garde
Grape variety: Chardonnay. 18 months in oak barrels, of which 10% new.

Nose with yellow and green apples, some citrus, and some oak barrel notes with some butter and smoke. The palate is dry with green and yellow apples, some citrus, high acidity, minerality and good fruit character. Rather young, 88(+) p.

This wines reminds me of a Chablis with somewhat noticeable oak, but it is probably a bit more fruity than most of those wines, so it goes a bit in the direction of other Burgundies (Côte de Beaune) without losing the distinct impression of a cool origin.

The Corps de Garde range represents the non-vineyard designated terroir wines from Goisot, named after a watch tower at the domaine. The oak regime of this Chardonnay is the same as for the vineyard-desigated wines, but in this wine the oak and the buttery notes are more prominent.

2012 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Biaumont
Grape variety: Chardonnay. 18 months in oak barrels, of which 10% new.

Nose with yellow apples, hints of yellow plum, citrus, perfume, and flowery notes, as well as discrete oak barrel notes that are well integrated – definitely elegant! The palate is dry with citrus, green apple, noticeable minerality, and high acidity. Young, should preferably be cellared, 89+ p.

Here I was quite fond of the nose, and many Côte de Beaune wines at twice the price would come across as better having this nose, but the overall impression is more like a Chablis premier cru with well handled oak. Compared to the previous wine this is firmer on the palate with a more elegant nose, where the oak is better integrated, but it is not more full-bodied. It is definitely more in need of cellaring, and should at least get a few years of rest, but preferably more than that (say, 5+ years). The bottle I tasted from had been open for over four hours, and then came across as young but reasonably accessible. A couple of hours in a decanter in the fridge could be a good idea for those that can’t keep their fingers away this year or the next.

Biaumont is one of three vineyard-designated Goisot Chardonnay wines. The other two are Gondonne and Les Gueules de Loup. Of the three, Biaumont is supposed to be a bit more round and accessible as young, but the 2012 came across as more firm than Martin of Caviste had expected. On the other hand, the white 2012 Burgundies do tend to be more firm than the 2011s.

As a reference at the tasting (not available for purchased) we also got to taste:

2009 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Biaumont

The nose is flowery and perfumed with yellow and green apples, citrus, very well integrated oak barrel notes, and elegance. The palate is dry and rather fruity, a bit more full-bodied and round than the 2012s, with a high acidity and noticeable minerality. Rather young, but approachable now, 89 p.

This wine was served blind together with the information that it was one of previous three, but in another vintage. It was obvious that it was one of the Chardonnays, and since the oak notes came across in the same way, I guessed it was the Biaumont. The more fruity and round character indicated a more ripe vintage, so I guessed 2009, but the acidity was high enough (definitely good for a 2009!) for me to say 2010 as a back-up guess. When I check back, it turns out that I actually had tasted this wine before, in 2012. I then scored it 88+ p, and it reminded me of a Chablis premier cru.

Summing up

After having tasted three Caviste releases of Goisot, I must say that it is a very reliable producer. It is very pleasant that good Burgundy wines still can be had for a reasonable price, although the producer is consistently good and not entirely unknown. The explanation is that Goisot is located on the outskirts of Burgundy, and not in the most famous appellations. But if the wines are good and the producer reliable it’s just good that the wines come from places where an extra charges apply for the appellation name…

Swedish version here.

This entry was posted in Burgundy, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc. Bookmark the permalink.

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