In December I tasted some wines from Chablis producer Patrick Puize at the French-Swedish online merchant Caviste. Piuze’s wines are typical Chablis in style with a lot of mineral, some smoke and a firm palate. Nevertheless, these wines go just a little bit in the direction of “regular” white Burgundies from Côte de Beaune, since they are rather powerful and many of them receive a discrete oak barrel treatment.
This time, the vintage was 2014, and so far I haven’t too many encounters with that Burgundy vintage, so references are lacking. My impression was that the wines show good concentration and ripe fruit, but still has quite good acidity. This means some hot vintage character in the fruit, but the character of a regular vintage when it comes to acidity and freshness. This means that they are somewhat more accessible and less firm than 2013s and 2012s were when released, but that there is more freshness and potential than in the 2011s.
I wrote about some 2012s from Piuze about two years ago. The 2012 vintage was initially released by Caviste a little earlier in the season, and then re-tasted (what that blog post was about) them a couple of months later, when they had changed quite a bit. That re-taste took place at the same time of year as this tasting of the 2014s.
2014 Chablis Terroir de Courgis
The nose is smoky with yellow apples and rather ripe yellow fruit (for being a Chablis), some spice notes that hints at oak, and light flowery notes. The palate is distinctly dry with green and yellow apples, good concentration, high acidity, and mineral. The aftertaste is rather fruity and mineral-dominated. A rather young wine, but reasonably approachable now, 88(+) p.
This wine was slightly more powerful than the one below.
Courgis is one of the communes/villages around the Chablis village itself that is also part of the appellation. Courgis is located to the southwest from Chablis and in this commune we also find some of the premier crus of the left bank.
2014 Chablis Terroir de Fyé
The nose is rather fruity with green apples and some minerality. A firm palate with green and yellow apples, minerality, high acidity, and a long aftertaste with mineral. A rather young wine, but could be drunk now if you want something quite firm, 87-88(+) p.
This wine comes across as a bit more green apple- and mineral-dominated than the previous one, but also as somewhat lighter.
Fyé is a village northeast of Chablis itself, located within the borders of the Chablis commune. Fyé is located in a small valley just to the east of the grand cru hill.
2014 Chablis Premier Cru Les Forêts
The nose is smoky with mineral, yellow apples and good concentration of fruit. The palate shows good concentration, powerful minerality with a limestone/chalky impression, some green apples and yellow fruit behind the mineral, high acidity, and a long mineral-packed aftertaste. The minerality dominates over the fruit on the palate. A young wine, should preferably be cellared, 90(+) p.
Compared to the first wine, there is some similarity in the nose, but this wine is more powerful and much more mineral-dominated.
Les Forêts often gives reasonably powerful wines, at least among the premier crus of the left bank, since it is a southeast-facing vineyard. This makes a difference, since some of the other left bank premier crus are more north- than south-facing. The premier crus of the right bank (one example is Montée de Tonnere) are on average more south-facing.