Recently, the excellent Swedish-French online merchant Caviste (who sells a mixed box from one producer at a time, every three weeks or so) showed a new relase wines from Domaine Goisot, a producer in the Côtes de Auxerre/Grand Auxerrois area, an area around Chablis, which is in the northwestern part of Burgundy. Goisot is an organic and biodynamical producer, with a Demeter certification. If it seems I wrote rather recently about a Caviste release of Goisot wines, that’s fully correct. The previous release was in March this year. Martin of Caviste decided to move Goisot in his relase calendar in order to have an additional (non-sparkling) white wine release in early autumn. This release included the 2017 of the Aligoté and Sauvignon Blanc, and a 2015 vineyard-designated Chardonnay.
Before the release earlier this year, I previously wrote about the corresponding Goisot releases from Caviste in 2015, 2013 and 2012. Goisot produces quite good wines at a reasonable price, thanks to the less well-known appellations in the vineyards are located.
2017 Bourgogne Aligoté
Grape variety: Aligoté. 11 months in steel tank.
A fruity nose with ripe apple, some peach and melon, hints of fried apple, and mineral. Dry and firm palate with apple, mineral, and good acidity. The palate is definitely firmer than what the nose indicates, other than that the wine is approachable. Could develop for a few years, but could also be consumed near term, 85 p.
Compared to the 2016 vintage this wine is probably somewhat fruitier, but the style is mostly the same, with a pronounced minerality.
2017 Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula
Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc. 11 months in steel tank.
Discrete fruity nose with apple, hints of green notes with gooseberry and mineral. Dry, fruity and rather farm palate with green apple, some citrus and gooseberry, mineral, high acidity, and a fresh aftertaste. Fruitier on the palate than in the nose. Pleasant now, could surely be kept for a year or two if one so wishes, 86-87 p.
If you know what to look for, there are some Sauvignon Blanc notes in this wine, but they are not too pronounced. Definitely fresh, but perhaps not as cool-styled and mineral-dominated as the 2016 vintage.
2015 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Gondonne
Grape variety: Chardonnay. 16 months in oak barrels, of which 20% new.
A pleasant nose with a classical white Burgundy character and notes of ripe yellow apples, yellow plums, mineral with chalky notes, some white flowers, some butter and well integrated oak, and possibly some emerging developed notes. Dry and very mineral-dominated palate with a minty character, good weight behind the mineral, apple, good acidity, and an aftertaste with mineral and apple. More mineral-dominated on the palate in the nose. Somewhat developed now but can (and should be allowed to) develop more considering its minerality, 89+ p.
Definitely firm for being from a basically hot and ripe vintage. Compared to its sister wine 2015 Gueules de Loup, which was released the previous time, this wine should probably be cellared longer. I.e., it seems to me that they were released in the right order.
There were two wines from previous vintages for comparison:
2011 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Gondonne
Nose with ripe apple, some green notes in the background and a “hard” minerality, and some development. The palate is dry and apply with good concentration, somewhat “hard” mineral character, and a good acidity. The style is somewhat hard and cold. Drinkable now can probably develop more, 87-88 p?
Was released in 2013, and when I tasted it then I scored it 88+ p. The 2011 vintage in Burgundy is sometimes a bit tricky, but perhaps more on the red side than the white.
2008 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Gondonne
A fruity nose with ripe apple, yellow plums, mineral with some minty character, slightly flowery, developed with hints of butter and nuts. Palate with good concentration, fruit notes with green apple, some yellow plum, mineral, and good acidity. Fine development and a fresh style, gorgeous now, 90-91 p.
2008 – a wonderful vintage for white Burgundies! The following vintages in a similar style are primarily 2010 and 2014. This wine not tasted before.