Reims – the largest city in Champagne, part 2: major Champagne houses (A-L)

The Notre-Dame de Reims cathedral. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons (photo Tim Hodson, 2011).

The profile is divided into four parts
Part 1: Basic facts
Part 2: Major Champagne houses, members of the Union des Maisons de Champagne (A-L)
Part 3: Major Champagne houses, members of the Union des Maisons de Champagne (M-Z)
Part 4: Other Champagne producers – cooperatives and small producers – and former producers

Reims is home to the largest concentration of major Champagne houses. Of the ten largest Champagne houses, sex are located in Reims, based on sales under their own brand in 2015:

  • 2nd place: Veuve Clicquot, 19 million bottles
  • 4th place: G.H. Mumm, 7.6 million bottles
  • 6th place: Taittinger, 5.5 million bottles
  • 7th place: Pommery, 4.4 million bottles
  • 8th place: Piper-Heidsieck, 4.3 million bottles
  • 9th place: Lanson, 4.2 million bottles

The 45 million bottles sold by these six houses correspond to 14% of the total volume of Champagne sold in 2015 (313 million bottles) and 20% of the volume sold by Champagne houses (224 million bottles) as opposed to other categories of producers.

Major Champagne houses, members of the Union des Maisons de Champagne

Unions des Maisons de Champagne (UMC) is the organisation of the Champagne houses, primarily the major ones. An older term for the major Champagne houses was Grandes Marques, so UMC often present themselves as the Grandes Marques & Maisons de Champagne. Of the 76 members listed on the UMC website, 22 are in Reims, but they take up six of the spots on the top 10, by size.

An advertisement for Henri Abelé from 1923, focussing on their founding in 1757. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons.

  • Henri Abelé, a house owned by Freixenet, the major Spanish Cava produce. This house has no vineyards of their own and their annual production is 600 000 bottles (2011). The regular vintage Champagne is composed of a majority of Chardonnay, together with Pinot Noir (2004: 55% Ch/45% PN, 2006: 70% Ch/30% PN). Soirées Parisiennes is composed of 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir (refers to the 2006 vintage), has been produced since the 1988 vintage, and nowadays includes a higher proportion of Chardonnay than it used to. The prestige cuvée is called Le Sourire de Reims and has been produced since 1986. The white version is composed of  60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir (refers to the 2007 and 2008 vintages) and the rosé version is composed of 100% Pinot Noir from Les Riceys (refers to the 2003 vintage).
    History
    The house counts his history back to 1757, when it was founded by Théodore Vander Veken (also written Van der Veken) who created the Vander Veken house. In 1837, Antoine de Muller established himself in Reims. In 1839, he took in François Joseph Charles Kilian Abelé as a partner and in 1842 the name became Abelé de Muller. In 1876, Henri Marie Joseph Louis Abelé (1852-1923) took over after his father, and it is from him the house has his current name. On his mother’s side, Abelé was related to Vander Veken. In 1884, Henri Abelé became the first house to use freezing of the bottle neck when disgorging Champagne; the invention was made by Armand Walfart. In 1908, Henri Abelé fused his father’s and his mother’s companies to the house Abelé-Vander Veker. In 1985, Freixenet bought the house Henri Abelé from the Compagnie Française.
  • Barons de Rothschild. The company address is in Reims, but they also have a facility in Vertus. The grapes originate from about 75 ha of vineyards, most of it from the Côte des Blancs and under contract. Their own vineyards include the 1 ha Clos Prieur in Vertus. The Champagnes include a high proportion of Chardonnay (60%-100%). The annual production is about 300 000 bottles (information from 2014), but is on the increase, with an initial target of 500 000 bottles within a couple of years. Initially, the range consisted of non-vintage Champagnes. In 2015, the first vintage Champagne was launched, a blanc de blancs of the 2006 vintage produced in a limited volume, which has been followed by the 2008 (as of 2017). (The front label doesn’t indicate that it is a blanc de blancs.) A true prestige cuvée is supposed to be on the way, but may only be launched in 2020 or thereabouts. Also a rosé which is either vintage or prestige is on its way. All the Champagnes of the range are kosher.
    History
    The project was initiated in 2005 by three Bordeaux-based branches of the Rothschild family (the owners of respectively Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild, and Château Clarke) and they started to collaborate with the cooperative La Goutte d’Or in Vertus regarding production. In 2007, the cellar in Vertus used by Ch. & A. Prieur was bought as storage for the Rothschild Champagnes. Ch. & A. Prieur was a Champagne house bought in 2005 by the La Goutte d’Or cooperative. In 2010, a new vinification facility stood ready, and in 2013 an additional building in Vertus was bought. The first Champagnes were sold in 2009, in Japan, and they started to sell on a slightly larger scale in 2011. There used to be a Champagne named Réserve Baron Philippe de Rothschild, but it was initially produced by Ruinart and then by Henriot, both Reims-based houses. Philippe de Rotschild (1902-1988) was the owner of Château Mouton Rothschild.
  • Bissinger & C°, which is part of the Vranken-Pommery-Monopole group. Bissinger doesn’t seem to have its own website (2018) and isn’t mentioned in the group’s list of their Champagne houses. Consequently, my impression is that it is currently used as a secondary brand for the low price market. The 22 ha of owned vineyards (of which 21.7 ha in the Marne departement and 20 ha in a continuous holding) is made up of Domaine de Montchenois in Chenay in the Massif de Saint-Thierry.
    History
    The house was founded in 1875. It was bought in November 2012 by the Vranken-Pommery-Monopole group. At this time, Bissinger had grape contracts of 228 ha and owned Domaine de Montchenois covering 22 ha of vineyards. The purchase of Bissinger, Domaine de Montchenois, and three other smaller companies costed a total of 37.6 million euros.

The Charles de Cazanoves buildings in Reims. Picture linked from Wikimedia commons (photo Alkhimov Maxim, 2012).

  • Charles de Cazanove, a Champagne house owned by G.H. Martel & Cie. The range is made up of four product lines – Tradition Père & Fils, Azur, Grandes Cuvées, Stradivarius – where the latter two are filled in bottles of a special shape. The vintage Champagnes in the Tradition Père & Fils line and the Stradivarius line are composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. The Grandes Cuvées Champagnes carry names related to musical instruments: Stradivarius is composed of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, and Grand Apparat is composed of 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Meunier. Vieille France is composed of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay.
    History
    The house was founded in 1811 by Charles Gabriel De Cazanove in Avize. The house later moved to Épernay, where it remained for a long time. The house and the brand have changed owners a number of times in the late 20th century and early 21st century. In 1958, Martini & Rossi took over the ownership from the de Cazanove family, and in 1983 Moët-Hennessy became the owner. In 1985, the ownership was taken over by Société Anonyme de Magenta-Epernay (S.A.M.E.), a company in Épernay owned by the Lombard family. It might be mentioned that Moët-Hennessy/LVMH several times has bought other Champagne houses in order to absorbe their vineyards and then rather quickly sold on the brand (and possibly the inventory of bottles and some production facilities). Charles de Cazanove was then used by S.A.M.E. as the name of their company. SA Charles de Cazanove (i.e., the Lombard-dominated ex-S.A.M.E.) was introduced on the stock exchange in 1999. In 2003, the Charles de Cazanove brand was sold to G.H. Martel, and the stock company changed its name to SA Lombard-Ménot – see also Ménot & Cie in part 4. This means that quite different companies and activities have carried the Charles de Cazanove name until 1983/85, in 1985-2003, and after 2003, respectively. In late 2017, the house was sued for defamation by count Loïc Chiroussot de Bigault de Cazanove, a relative of the founder of the house. This followed the launch of a rosé Champagne named for and promoted by Clara Morgane, a lady with a background in the erotic business. The count didn’t want to see his family name on such bottles.
  • Chanoine Frères, which is part of the Lanson-BCC group, where Chanoine has provided the middle C in BCC. Production is about 3.5 million bottles, including Tsarine. The vintage Champagne is a blanc de blancs.
    History
    The house was founded in 1730 by Jacques-Louis Chanoine and Jean-Baptiste Chanoine in Épernay and therefore counts themselves as the second oldest Champagne house. Since 1991, Chanoine is part of what initially was called Boizel Chanoine Champagne (BCC) and nowadays the Lanson-BCC group.

    • Tsarine is the prestige brand of Chanoine (with its own website) and exists (2016) in seven different versions with e.g. different varietal composition. All are bottled in “obliquely rifled” bottles of the same shape. The annual production is about 500 000 bottles. The range includes a vintage Champagne composed of 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot Meunier, a vintage blanc de blancs, and the non-vintage Tzarina composed of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir.
      History
      Tsarine was launched in 2000 by Chanoine Frères. In 2015, Tsarine by Adriana was launched, named for the Slovak model Adriana Karembeu who is a brand ambassador for Chanoine Frères. — HERE —

Heidsieck & C° Monopole Blue Top. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons (photo decar66, 2012).

  • Heidsieck & C° Monopole is part of the Vranken-Pommery-Monopole group and therefore has a different owner than the other two Heidsieck houses. Heidsieck & C° Monopole does however share its early history with Piper-Heidsieck. Their standard Champagne is called Blue Top, the vintage Champagne is Gold Top and is composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay (refers to the 2005 vintage). The non-vintage top cuvée is called Cuvée Impératrice and is composed of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. Older vintages have the designation Millésimes d’Or.
    History
    The house was founded in 1785 by Florens-Louis Heidsieck (1749-1828) from Westphalia. Heidsieck & C° was originally a trading company for cloth and wine, but got their focus on Champagne wines early on. In 1788, Florens-Louis presented his wine to Marie Antoinette, and in 1789 the house had already acquired a good reputation. The house was a big exporter early on, in particular to Russia and Germany. In 1814, the only son of Florens-Louis died, and he therefore brought four nephews into the company: Frédéric-Auguste Delius, Charles-Henri Heidsieck, Henri-Louis Walbaum, and Christian Heidsieck. In 1828, Florens-Louis died and left the company to Henri-Louis, Frédéric-Auguste, and Christian. Following various differences, the three cousins went separate ways in 1834, and Henri-Louis Walbaum (1813-1883) continued to run the company together with his brother-in-law Auguste Heidsieck (1796-1870), then under the name Heidsieck & C°. (The widow of Christian Heidsieck formed Piper-Heidsieck around this time.) In 1860, Walbaum and Heidsieck created the brand Monopole. Following the death of Auguste Heidsieck, his widow ran the house as “Veuve Heidsieck et Co, successeurs de Heidsieck & C°” for some years. She was succeeded by Florens Walbaum (-1893) and in 1882 again became Heidsieck & C°, while in 1889 it became “Walbaum, Luling, Goulden & CO, successeurs d’Heidsieck & C°” (apparently with some new partners brought in) and in 1907 “Walbaum Goulden & CO, successeurs d’Heidsieck & C°, Maison fondée en 1785”. In 1923, the house was bought by Édouard Mignot, the founder of a chain of shops called Les Comptoirs Français, and the name became Heidsieck & C° Monopole, by bringing the old brand into the company name. In 1972, the stock majority (84%) was bought by G.H. Mumm, and in 1985 they became fully owned by the Mumm group, which was then mostly owned by Seagram. In the late 1990s, Seagram started to sell off their Champagne holdings and since 1996 Heidsieck & C° Monopole is part of what today is known as the Vranken-Pommery-Monopole group. The purchase included 70 ha of vineyards. The former brand Diamant Bleu, which was used for their top Champagnes and was sold in transparent bottles, has been moved to Vranken by the current owner.
    In 1916, Heidsieck & C° Monopole shipped 3000 bottles of Champagne of the 1907 vintage to the Russian army. This shipment was loaded on the Swedish ship Jönköping en route from Gävle, Sweden to Rauma, Finland (which was then a Grand Duchy of the Russian Empire), but on 3 November 1916, Jönköping was sunk by the German U-boat U-22. In 1997, the wreck was located by Swedish divers, with 2400 bottles of Champagne still on board. Bottles of this “wreck Champagne” have surfaced regularly at auctions ever since.
  • Charles Heidsieck is a high-quality sister house of Piper-Heidsieck and of the Heidsieck houses, this is the one with the most ambitious Champagnes and the smallest volume produced. What is special about them is the high proportion of old reserve wines in their non-vintage Champagne Brut Réserve. It includes 40% reserve wines of which the oldest are over 10 years of age, in some cases up to 15 years. This Champagne therefore shows more bready/biscuity notes of maturity than other “standard Champagnes” from major houses (and an almost oaky style despite no oak barrels being used in the production), and they have had this style since the early 1990s. The vintage when the bottle was laid the cellar is indicated on the back label (the base vintage is the year before), and also the year of disgorgement. The price tends to be quite reasonable considering what’s in the bottle. Brut Rosé includes 20% reserve wines, so the style is not quite the same. The same proportion is used for the newly (2018) added Blanc de Blancs. The vintage Champagnes are released at a rather high age; mid-2018 the youngest vintages released are 2006 for both the white and the rosé vintage Champagnes. The white is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Their policy regarding vintage released is slightly odd; the white vintage Champagne jumped from vintage 2000 to 2005 in one step and the rosé from 1999 to 2006, which was released before 2005. (No releases from the excellent 2002 vintage and no regular vintage from the high-yielding but quite good 2004 vintage!) The current prestige cuvée is called Blanc de Millenaires, and is a 100% Chardonnay which has been produced since the 1983 vintage. The 2004 vintage was launched in early 2018 and followed the 1995, which was sold for a surprisingly log time, in different disgorgements. The former prestige cuvée was called Champagne Charlie, also included Pinot Noir, and was produced from the 1979 vintage to the 1985 vintage. The current owners have said that they will relaunch this cuvée some time 2021-2022 (the vintage hasn’t been revealed). Older vintages of different Champagnes are sold under then designation La Collection Crayères.

    Charles Heidsieck (1820-1871), “Champagne Charlie”. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons.

    History
    The house was founded in 1851 by Charles Heidsieck, also known as “Champagne Charlie”, and his father Charles-Henri Heidsieck was a nephew of Florens-Louis Heidsieck who was behind the original Heidsieck & C° house. In his day, Champagne Charlie was particularly successful in the United States. The house Charles Heidsieck, which then was in trouble, was bought by Henriot in 1975, who in 1985 sold it on to Rémy Martin (which later became Rémy Cointreau). It was the change of ownership in 1985 which meant that Champagne Charlie stopped being produced, since Krug had the same owner which didn’t see the need of another Pinot-dominated prestige Champagne in their stable. Since 1988, Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck have had the same owner and have partly been managed together. In some periods they had the same chief wine maker, and in other periods separate ones. In  2011, both houses were bought by the luxury good investment company Européenne de Participation Industrielle (EPI), owned by the Descours family. In recent times, Charles Heidsieck has had two chief wine makers that died prematurely: Daniel Thibault who died in 2002 and Thierry Roset who died in 2014, at 55 years of age. Following the purchase of Charles Heidsieck by Rémy Martin in 1985, Thibault (who had been chief wine maker since 1975) got the task to produce the very best non-vintage Champagne on the market. This was how he got the financial means to build up the substantial quantity of reserve wines of sufficient age needed for the 40% reserve wines that since then have been used in the blend for their non-vintage Champagne. Originally, eight earlier vintages were used as reserve wines. In 1997, the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve was changed to the Brut Réserve Mis en Cave, which had a neck label indicating the year when the bottles had been laid in the cellar, which is the year after the base vintage. Three versions were launched at this time: Mis en Cave 1992, 1993, and 1994, with 1991, 1992, and 1993 as base vintage. This was very appreciated by Champagne geeks of the day, but many consumers misunderstood the Mis en Cave concept and thought they were vintage Champagnes from the year indicated on the neck label. The successor of Thibault, Régis Camus, therefore decided in 2004 to remove the Mis en Cave designation, but the information could still be found on the back label, with the exception of bottles disgorged in 2010-2011. In fall 2012, Brut Réserve and the rosé were launched in a new bottle shape, and the cuvée was adjusted to include fewer base wines (60 crus instead of 110-120) but even a little older reserve wines than previously. It might be mentioned that the original increase in quality was followed by reduced sales – from 3.5 million bottles annually just before the Rémy Martin purchase to just over 1 million bottles in the early 2000s. On the other hand, Piper-Heidsieck increased from 4.5 million to 7-8 million, so to a large extent this was a relative repositioning of the two houses under common ownership from 1988.
    Vintages of Champagne Charlie: 1979, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1985.
    Vintages of Blanc de Millenaires: 1983 (launched in 1993), 1985, 1990,  1995, 2004 (launched in 2018).

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons (photo jen, 2012).

  • Piper-Heidsieck, one of the largest Champagne houses, which in 2015 was in 8th place with sales of about 4.3 million bottles. The larger Piper-Hiedsieck and the smaller Charles Heidsieck have the same owner, but are run separately and have different wine makers. Together they have 65 ha of their own vineyards. Most of the Piper-Hiedsieck Champagnes are dominated by Pinot Noir, and their non-vintage Cuveé Brut is composed of 50-55% Pinot Noir, 30-35% Pinot Meunier, and 15-20% Chardonnay, as includes 10-20% reserve wine. (The proportion of Meunier indicated on the website has increased somewhat in recent years; these numbers are from 2017.) Rosé Sauvage is characteristic among rosées from major houses for an unusually high proportion of red wine (20-25%) and therefore a deep rosé colour. The vintage Champagne is nowadays composned of about equal proportions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, after having formerly sometimes been Pinot Noir-dominated. The 2008 is 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir. The prestige cuvée is called Rare and features a lot of gold detail on the bottle. It has been produced since the 1976 vintage. Nowadays (refers to the 2002 vintage, the most recent release) it is composed by 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, all from the Montagne de Reims, i.e., also the Chardonnay. In some former releases, Rare has been non-vintage. Raré Rosé was launched in fall 2016, in the 2007 vintage, and is composed of 56% Chardonnay and 44% Pinot Noir. Piper-Heidsieck is a house which in recent years have increased their quality.
    History
    The house Heidsieck & C° was founded in 1785 by Florens-Louis Heidsieck, and its early history is described above under Heidsieck & C° Monopole. When Florens-Louis died in 1828, he left the company to his three nephews Henri-Louis Walbaum, Frédéric-Auguste Delius, and Christian Heidsieck. In 1834, the three cousins went separate ways, and Piper-Heidsieck originates from Christian Heidsieck (while Henri-Louis Walbaum ran what later became Heidsieck & C° Monopole). In 1835, Christian died. In 1838, his widow married Henri-Guillaume Piper, who had worked with Christian, and the name Piper-Heidsieck was created. In 1870, Henri-Guillaume died and management was taken over by Jacques-Charles Théodore Kunkelmann, who had worked in the company since 1851. His son Ferdinand-Théodore took over in 1892, and in 1926 his daughter Yolande married the marquis Jean de Suarez d’Aulan, who was an aviation pioneer. Their oldest son François d’Aulan took over in 1957, and continued until Rémy Martin (later Rémy Cointreau) took over the ownership in 1988. Since then, Piper-Heidsieck has had the same owner as Charles Heidsieck. In 2010, Rémy Cointreau announced that they wanted to sell their Champagne houses, due to financial problems when the financial crisis that started in 2007-08 had hit them and the Champagne sales had decreased. In 2011, both houses were bought by Européenne de Participation Industrielle (EPI), which is owned by the Descours family. This most recent change of ownership is seen by most as positive for the house, since the new owners seem to have higher ambitions. In 2013, their chief wine maker Régis Camus (who has been on the post since 1994) to the chef de cave of the year in Champagne by IWC.

    Composition of the vintage Champagne: 1996: 39% Ch/61% PN, 1996: 47% Ch/53% PN, 1998: 40% Ch/60% PN, 2000: 55% Ch/45% PN, 2004: 42% Ch/58% PN, 2006: 51% Ch/49% PN, 2008: 52% Ch/48% PN.
    Vintages of Rare: 1976, 1979, 1985, 1988, 1990, 1998, 1999 och 2002. (No 2004 was produced, but otherwise no information about future vintages.) In some releases, Rare has been non-vintage, but I don’t know if those bottles are the same as some vintage-dated release, or different.
    Vintages of Rare Rosé: 2007.
  • Henriot, a Champagne house of high quality and with a very classical style. At an annual volume of 1.2 million bottles (figure from 2015) Henriot is one of the “medium-sized” houses. They have 35 ha of vineyards of their own which provide 15-20% of their grape supplies. To me, the Champagnes of Henriot tend to come across as more dominated by Chardonnay than what the actual numbers say, and this is particularly true for the vintage and prestige Champagnes which both are about 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. They also count the 15-18% blanc de blancs produced by them as their flagship and Chardonnay as their favorite grape variety. Henriot often launches magnum versions of their vintage Champagne (both white and rosé) with additional age. From 2018, the prestige cuvée is called Cuvée Hemera and is named for the goddess of light in Greek mythology. The first vintage to be released under this name was 2005, and Henriot has stated that they wished for another style than their previous prestige Champagnes while the composition still is 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. The previous prestige release was the 2000 vintage and then the name of the prestige cuvée was still Cuvée des Enchanteleurs. This was always released at a rather high age and it was common for several vintages at the same time to be available on the market. The name Enchanteleurs was introduced in the 1985 vintage. Before it was called Cuvée Baccarat, but later releases of older vintages have also been called Cuvée des Enchanteleurs. The 1999 vintage was produced in a limited edition in magnum only and was given the additional name Eclipse, after a solar eclipse that year. Cuvée 38 is a prestige blanc de blancs produced in a solera (which means it’s non-vintage) and it was launched in 2014. Cuvée 38 is only sold in magnum, currently in a volume of 1000 per year. The foundation of Cuvée 38 was laid in the excellent vintage 1990 when a 480 hl tank of Chardonnay was set aside. In each vintage, 1.5%-20% of the content is renewed depending of the quality of the vintage.
    History
    The house was founded in 1808 as Veuve Henriot Ainé by the then 33 year old Apolline Henriot (born Godinot), widow of Nicolas Henriot. Apolline was related to Abbé Godinot, who is one of the well-known names in the Champagne history. After Apolline, the grandson Ernest Henriot took over. After him his newphew Paul Henriot took over. In 1880, Paul had married Marie Marguet, who owned vineyards in the Côte des Blancs. Paul’s son Etienne Henriot (1889-1957) took over in 1926. Under Etienne, the vineyard holdings expanded to almost 110 ha with a focus on grand cru vineyards. Etienne’s son Joseph Henriot (1936-2015) started in the company in 1957, when his father died, and took over in 1962. Henriot bought Charles Heidsieck in 1975, but sold to Rémy Martin in 1985. In 1987 Henriot was bought, then with 125 ha of vineyards, by Moët-Hennessy, and in exchange the Henriot became shareholders. Joseph Henriot became a board member of LVMH and head of Veuve Clicquot. In 1994, Joseph Henriot bought back Henriot from Moët-Hennessy/LVMH. Joseph expanded their holdings to Burgundy; in 1995 they bought Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune (including 130 ha of vineyards, of which 12 ha grand cru and 75 ha premier cru), which was followed by a substantial increase in quality at Bouchard over the next 10 years, and in 1998 they bought William Fèvre in Chablis. In 2004 the distribution company Lejay-Lagoute followed and in 2008 Villa Ponciago (50 ha of vineyards) in Fleurie in Beaujolais. Joseph’s son Thomas Henriot took over in 2008.
    Réserve Baron Philippe de Rothschild was a vintage Champagne produced by Henriot in the vintages 1965-1981 (1982?), in a period when they had a distribution and marketing collaboration with the baron (who owned Mouton Rothscild). I have contradictory claims if it was on the level of a prestige Champagne (both Rotschild and Baccarat was produced in a number of vintages) or a regular vintage Champagne.
    Vintages of Cuvée Hemera: 2005.
    Vintages of Cuvée des Enchanteleurs (Cuvée Baccarat for original releases before 1985) include: 1970 (released about 1980), 1976, 1979, 1981, 1983, 1985 (the first original Enchanteleurs, released about 1995), 1988, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999 (only in magnum), 2000. (None of the vintages 2001-2004 were produced.)
  • Irroy, an old Champagne house now owned by Taittinger. Doesn’t have a website of their own and is run as a secondary brand by Taittinger.
    History
    The house was founded in 1820.

The courtyard of Krug, on this occasion filled with the oak barrels characteristic of their production. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons (photo by me, 2010).

  • Krug, a legendary and prestigious Champagne house that I consider to be the very best, both within UMC and in Champagne as a whole. The entire production is vinified in used oak barrels and all Krug Champagnes are, on good grounds, considered prestige cuvées (and are priced accordingly). Krug keeps a high quality of their grape material by handling much smaller batches of grapes and base wine than other houses, which makes it possible for them to mak use of small plots of good grapes wherever they find them. They also use a certain proportion of Pinot Meunier, which is unusual in prestige cuvées. Villages of origin for this Meunier is usually Saint-Gemme and Villevenard. The cuvée produced in the largest volume, Krug Grande Cuvée, has a very high proportion of base wines with a high age. It is composed of about 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot Meunier. Using the terminology of Krug, Grande Cuvée is a “multivintage” Champagne. (They don’t like the term non-vintage.) Krug always manage to keep a very high quality in all their releases, due to their large stocks of old reserve wines of intrinsic high quality, but the vintage style comes though to some extent. This means that some Grande Cuvée releases will be more in need of cellaring than others. In recent years, Grande Cuvée has also started to get more time on its cork before release, so they tend to be more ready to drink already at purchase, compare to the situation some years ago. On bottles delivered from late 2011, thre is also information on the label (initially the back label, now the front label) which makes it possible to figure out which base vintage and batch is in the bottle. This makes it possible to get information about the exact varietal composition, via the Krug website.  Here is page where i explain how to figure this out, to some extent also on older bottles. The Édition number, added most recently to the front label, is the easiest to explain. One number is used per year, add 1844 to get the base vintage. (The hypothetic 1er Édition = base vintage 1845.) Examples: 164ème = base 2008, 165ème = base 2009, 166ème = base 2010. Krug Rosé is the multivintage (i.e., non-vintage in the vernacular) rosé version. It is an assemblage rosé which includes about 10% red Pinot Noir from the base vintage. The blend for Krug Rosé isn’t quite the same as for the white Krug Grande Cuvée, because it doesn’t include quite as old reserve wines. The composition is about 50-60% Pinot Noir, 30-40% Chardonnay, and about 10% Pinot Meunier. Nowadays, the rosé gets about the same time in the cellar as he Grande Cuvée, while it used to be sold a little younger. Krug Rosé has also been included into the Edition numbering, a little later than Grande Cuvée, and with different numbers. Add 1987 to the Edition number to get the base vintage.(1er Édition = base vinatge 1988.) Examples: 20ème = base 2007, 21ème = base 2008. Krug Vintage is the regular vintage Krug with approximately the same varietal composition as Grande Cuvée, but is sold with a slightly higher age and is on average even a little better. The most recently released vintage (in 2017) is the 2004. Krug Vintage is produced if the vintage is good enough, and when they don’t need to set aside everything as reserve wine for the Krug Grande Cuvée. Vintage Krug sold at a higher age is called Krug Collection, and the most recent release (as of 2017) is 1990. (1988 hasn’t been released yet.) Krug produces two single-variety vineyard-designated Champagnes at a higher price point: Clos du Mesnil (100% Chardonnay) since the 1979 vintage (launched in 1986) and Clos d’Ambonnay since the 1995 vintage. Clos du Mesnil originates from a 1.84 ha vineyard inside Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and has by several knowledgeable commentators been dubbed the world’s best Champagne. Although it is a blanc de blancs, it is a Krug first, and there is a distinct similarity to the Krug Vintage. It is usually launched at about the same time as the Krug Vintage of the same vintage. In some vintages (e.g. 1992), a Clos du Mesnil has been released although no Krug Vintage was produced. Clos d’Ambonnay originates from a 0.68 ha vineyard in Ambonnay and is sold at a noticeably higher price than the Clos du Mesnil. Clos d’Ambonnay is released a little later than the Clos du Mesnil, and I think this is due to a slow turnover of the bottles, i.e., they have been priced a wee bit high when they were introduced. I’ve never tasted it, but stylistically it is said to be close to Krug Vintage.
    History
    The house was founded in 1843 by Joseph Krug, who used to work for Jacquesson, which was then in Châlons-en-Champagne. In 1977, Krug was purchased by Rémy Martin (later Rémy Cointreau), and was sold in 1999 to LVMH, where it is run independently within the group, e.g., in terms of grape supply.
    Already in 1848, Joseph Krug wrote down the product philosophy which has guided the Krug range every since. He opined that a good Champagne house should only produce two Champagnes of the same quality. Champagne No.1 should be produced every year and Champagne No.2 should express a certain vintage. No.1 is today’s Krug Grande Cuvée and No.2 is Krug Vintage. (I think we should excuse Joseph Krug for not prognosticating a later interest in rosé Champagne or vineyard-designated Champagnes.) Not to have several Champagnes at different quality levels was a different idea – then as now. The non-vintage/multivintage version of Krug used to be called Private Cuvée, but changed its name to Grande Cuvée in 1978.
    In 1971, several vineyard plots in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger were bought, including Clos du Mesnil. After spending some years getting the vineyard in sufficiently good shape, the first Krug Clos du Mesnil was produced in 1979. After some years of experimenting with a rosé, they decided in 1983 to start the production. In 1994, Clos d’Ambonnay was bought after Krug having had their eyes on it for some years. The first vintage of Krug Clos d’Ambonnay was the 1995.

    Vintages of Krug Vintage since 1969: 1969, 1971, 1973, 1975, 1976, 1979, 1981, 1982, 1985, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2002, 2003 (released before 2002), 2004. Future vintages not produced include 2012 (was needed as reserve wine for GC).
    Vintages of Krug Clos du Mesnil: 1979 (the first vintage), 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1985, 1986, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1992, 1995, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2002, 2003 (released before 2002), 2004.
    Vintages of Krug Clos d’Ambonnay: 1995 (the first vintage), 1996, 1998, 2000, 2002.
    Blog post about a Decanter Masterclass with Krug in 2011.
    Blog post about a visit at Krug in 2014.
    Blog post about a Krug Grande Cuvée tasting in 2014, and more about Grande Cuvée.

The Lanson main building in Reims. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons (photo Sabrinaharmas, 2013).

  • Lanson, one of the largest houses in Champagne, in 2015 on 9th place among all Champagne houses with a sale of about 4.2 million bottles. Today part of the Lanson-BCC group and recognisable by the Maltese cross on their labels. More than 500 ha of vineyards is used in their production. Characteristic for Lanson is that their Champagnes are produced with no malolactic fermentation (which under their current wine maker is about to change to “mostly without malolactic fermentation”), and therefore are long-lived. The style of Lanson is classical in the sense that no oak barrels are used (with one small exception). The non-vintage Black Label is composed of 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Meunier. The style it is produced in means that it often combines Pinot notes with a very distinct acidity, and it is typically the most long lived among the non-vintage “standard Champagnes” of the major houses. Extra Age is a series of non-vintage Champagnes with a longer cellaring before release, that is usually composed of three vintages (which are sometimes mentioned) and a different grape material than the Black Label. At the launch in 2009, the white Extra Age was composed of the vintages 1999, 2002, and 2003, and there was 60% Pinot Noir + 40% Chardonnay. Extra Age exists in three versions: white blended, rosé, and blanc de blancs. Ivory Label is a Demi-Sec (off-dry/sweet) which in the past also has been available in a vintage version. Green Label is an organic non-vintage Lanson from vineyards in Verneuil, launched in 2017. The vintage Champagne is called Gold Label (the name used to be Red Label) and is composed of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir (refers to the 2005 vintage). Lanson also relases recently disgorged bottles of older vintages under the name Vintage Collection but their price point is higher than their prestige Champagnes when newly released. The  prestige Champagne is called Noble Cuvée and exists as white blended, blanc de blancs, and a non-vintage rosé. The white blended has existed since the 1978 vintage. Noble Cuvée Blanc de Blancs was added later and replaced a Blanc de Blancs sold in a similar bottle from the 1989 vintage. Noble Cuvée is released at a high age; current vintages for both the blended and the blanc de blancs is 2002 (relased in fall 2017, last among the major houses; magnums are released later). The blended 2002 is composed of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. Lanson is a house where I think the prestige – Noble Cuvée – often has ended up in the shadow of the regular vintage Champagne in terms of attention. A vineyard-desugnated Champagne named Clos Lanson, with 2006 as the first vintage, was launched in 2016. Clos Lanson is located behind Lanson’s facilities in Reims, is made up of Chardonnay only and is vinified in oak barrels, unlike the rest of the range.
    History
    The house was founded in 1760 by François Delamotte, who through his wife had vineyards in Cumières and Aÿ. The house got its characteristic Maltese cross by the founder’s son Nicolas-Louis Delamotte, who was a Maltese knight. After his death, Jean-Baptiste Lanson took over the company in 1837, and it then became J-B Lanson et Compagnie. In 1855, the son of Jean-Baptise, Victor-Marie Lanson, took over the house which was then renamed Lanson Père et Fils. Victor Lanson took over the house in 1928, and in 1937 he renamed the non-vintage brut of the house to Black Label, i.e., a name in English, because Lanson sold so much to the United Kingdom. Victor’s son Etienne Lanson took over in 1967. He was the last of the Lanson family to led the house. The ownership of Lanson has changed several times in the last decades. In 1980, Lanson was sold by Etienne and Pierre Lanson to the Gardinier group. In 1984 both Lanson and Pommery fell in the hands of BSN (formerly BSN-Gervais Danone, later Danone). In 1990, both these houses were sold to Moët-Hennesy/LVMH for 3.1 billion francs (473 million euro using the 1999 conversion rate). In 1994, Lanson was bought by Marne et Champagne, which then changed its name to Lanson International. At the sale, Moët-Hennessy kept the vineyards that Lanson used to have, which are supposed to have been 210 ha in excellent locations. This large vineyard holding had to a large extent been built up in the 1930s by Victor and Henri Lanson. In 2006, Lanson International was bought by Boizel Chanoine Champagne (BCC) for 122.7 million euro (but then there were also 400 million euro of debt in the company). The price also included the former activities of Marne et Champagne, the Champagne house Besserat de Bellefon, and four Bordeaux châteaux. At the purchase, the Mora family owned 55% of Lanson International, and the investment bank Caisse d’Epargne 45%. The new group then became the second largest in Champagne. In 2010, BCC changed its name to Lanson-BCC. Lanson’s facilities at Rue de Courlancy in the south of Reims was originally built for the house Binet and was finished in 1886.
    Vintages released of Lanson Noble Cuvée since 1978 (possibly not complete): 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1985, 1988, 1989, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 2000, 2002. Future vintages are 2004, 2005, 2008, 2009 and 2012, and probably 2013 and 2015.
    Vintages released of Noble Cuvée Blanc de Blancs since 1989 (possibly not complete): 1989*, 1990*, 1994*, 1997, 1998, 2002, 2002. * = under the name Blanc de Blancs in a similar bottle.
    Vintages released of Clos Lanson since 2006: 2006. The aim seems to be to produce every vintage, and all 2007-2015 have been shown at “pre-tastings”.
    Blog post about Lanson Extra Age.

Links

© Tomas Eriksson 2018

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Two 2016s from Ludovic Chanson

In June I tasted two Ludovic Chanson wines sold in Sweden by Caviste, both 2016s. The Ludovic Chanson wines usually originate from the  Montlous-sur-Loire appellation in the Loire Valley and are then made exclusively using Chenin Blanc grapes, just as their across-the-river neighbour Vouvray. Last time I blogged about them, some 3.5 years ago, this was the case.

This release diverged from that norm, because it was from the 2016 vintage. Frost in late April 2016 resulted in big losses in the Loire Valley. (The problem was not exclusive to the Loire Valley; Chablis and the rest of Burgundy suffered similar problems.) Montlouis-sur-Loire was hit particularly hard, and in the end very little was harvested there in 2016. Ludovic Chanson then decided to produce two wines using bought-in grapes from other areas, one sparkling and one still. Chenin Blanc for both wines was sourced from Azay-le-Rideau a little further to the west. Both wines also include Gros Manseng from the southwest of France, and the still wine also some Chardonnay from the Southwest. This blend meant that the wines had to be designated Vin de France.

Ludovic Chanson Les Pions
Vin de France Pétillant Naturel, i.e., a sparkling wine, 50% Chenin Blanc and 50% Gros Manseng from the 2016 vintage.

Nose with ripe red apple with some winter apples and dried fruit, a slightly flowery note. The nose is very Chenin-styled but is rather developed for a young wine. Dry on the palate (the production method means that the wine is fermented fully dry and doesn’t have any sugar/dosage added) but with a fruity attack, winter apples, prominent spice notes, slightly oily, good acidity, and a spicy aftertaste. A sparkling wine with a food-oriented profile, mostly Chenin-styled but almost with some impression of Pinot Gris on the palate. Drinks well now, 87 p.

Les Pions shows more developed notes and more dried fruit, compared to the still wine.

2016 Ludovic Chanson Les Cabotines
Vin de France, 50% Chenin Blanc, 40% Gros Manseng, and 10% Chardonnay. Raised in oak barrels (no new oak) for 11 months.

Fruity nose with ripe apples, white currants, melons, rather flowery with discrete perfume notes. Dry palate with a fruity attack, ripe apples, white currants, melons, good substance on the palate, medium+ acidity, some spice notes, and a fruity aftertaste. Drinks well now, 87-88 p.

A more fruity profile than the sparkling wine. Comes across as slightly younger but should probably be consumed young.

Swedish version of this post

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Some Champagnes from Pehu Simonet

In May, I tasted some Champagnes from Pehu Simonet chez Swedish-French online merchant Caviste. Last time I wrote about a Pehu Simonet release was in 2015. Pehu Simonet is a smaller producer locate in Verzenay, which is a Pinot Noir-dominated grand cru village in the Grande Montagne de Reims area. Some of Pehu Simonets vineyards are in the neighbouring villages VerzySillery, and Mailly, but also in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, a Chardonnay-dominated grand cru village in the Côte des Blancs. The non-vintage Champagnes of the range are called Face Nord, which means northern face, as in north-facing slope. The explanation for this name is that their home village Verzenay is located on the northern side of the Montagne de Reims hill, unlike many other Pinot Noir-dominated grand cru villges in south-facing slopes.

Some years ago, Pehu Simonet changed the look of their labels and introduced a number of vintage Champagnes (currently five) from selected vineyards or villages/crus under the name Fins Lieux, ”fine places”. The changes in labels and names have also been followed by a bit of firming up of the style and improving of the quality in the direction of a typical “modern small grower style”, which e.g. has meant a little lower dosage. This notwithstanding, I’d say that they are still in a fruity and accessible style, especially in the context of typical “Caviste producers”, with a rather cool Pinot character in most of he Champagnes. This also was the best release from Pehu Simonet I’ve tasted so far, primarily because I really liked the vintage Verzenay.

Face Nord Brut Grand Cru NV
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, base vintage 2014 (70%) + 30% reserve wine from a solera started in 1985. Disgorged February 2018.

A fruity and apply nose with red apples and well-waxed ripe green apples, an impression of ripe fruit and light flowery notes. A nose characteristic of Pinot Noir, but not of the heavy red berry type. Palate with ripe apples, mostly ripe green apples together with some red apples, mineral, good acidity, and an apply aftertaste. A fresh style, young but drinks well already, 89 p.

I’d say that this Champagne is at a somewhat higher quality level compared to the white non-vintage Pehu Simonet some years ago. Staying within the Caviste range, it somewhat reminded me of Savart Ouverture in the first releases sold by Caviste (apply but a cool and pure Pinot style), although probably with a little less “acid bite” here.

Face Nord Rosé Grand Cru NV
About 75% Pinot Noir of which 6% red wine, about 25% Chardonnay, base vintage 2015.

A generous and fruity nose with wild strawberries, ripe red apple, some ripe citrus fruit, and slightly flowery. Palate with wild strawberries, red apples, generous berry notes, good concentration, mineral, good acidity, berry- and apple-dominated aftertaste. Young but approachable now, may gain from cellaring, 89(+) p.

Despite the base vintage being the more ripe 2015 (which is considered a very good vintage), the similarity to the white version (with base 2014) is great. The rosé is a bit more generous, but there is nothing in the style which says “too hot”. Interesting enough, I get the impression that it could gain a bit more from cellaring, compared to the white version.

Fins Lieux No 1 Verzenay Millesime Grand Cru 2012
100% Pinot Noir from the single vineyard site Les Perthois in Verzenay. Partly vinified in small oak barrels.

A big nose with ripe red apples, some peach, flowery notes, minerality of the somewhat bass-noted kind, hints of oak barrels and spice notes. A lot of fruity notes and more heavy and “low frequency” in style compared to the Face Nord. Palate with ripe red apples, some peach, definitely a good concentration of fruit, mineral, good acidity, hints of spice notes. A fresh aftertaste with red apples and peaches. Young, reasonably approachable already, will develop, 91+/92(+) p.

The nose indicates a heavy Pinot style, and could be something from Aÿ or thereabouts, but on the palate it is a little cooler and lighter than the nose indicates (but still concentrated and generous, if that makes sense), i.e., the more north-facing site shows itself. This Champagne and that combination was definitely to my taste and I do believe that the quality of the excellent 2012 vintage plays a role here!

Swedish version of this post.

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Some wines from Goisot

In March, Swedish-French online merchant Caviste showed a new batch of wines from Domaine Goisot, a producer in the Grand Auxerrois, an area around Chablis, which puts us in the northwestern part of Burgundy. Goisot is an organic and biodynamical producer, with a Demeter certification. I previously wrote about the corresponding Goisot releases from Caviste in 20152013 and 2013. Goisot produces quite good wines at a reasonable price, thanks to the less well-known appellations in the vineyards are located.

Talking about Goisot there are two things that might be mentioned. One is that I visited them in the village of Saint-Bris last summer, which was very pleasant and something I should blog about, just as there are so many other blog posts I’ve never gotten around to… The other is that the release included some 2016s. This was a vintage plaged by all sorts of problems (frost and hail – but at least no locusts as far as I know) and therefore gave quite small yields in Burgundy in general. Apparently, problems were even greater in the Auxerrois area (where Chablis is also located) compared to Burgundy in general. Goisot’s production was something like 10% of the usual. This meant that no vineyard-designated Chardonnays were produced in the 2016 vintage, only the mid-level wine Corps de Garde. Caviste also needed to spread out their allocation over four wines rater than three to get the numbers together. As a customer, I frankly didn’t mind two 2015 Chardonnays being part of the release.

While the 2016 vintage may be small, there’s definitely nothing wrong with them. (The same can be said for the rest of Burgundy, as a general rule.) Those I tasted here showed a prominent acidity and purity of fruit, but are somewhat leaner than 2015 (which isn’t surprising) and 2014. As white wines go, 2015 is a ripe/hot vintage with fine concentration and an early drinking window. In appellations producing powerful wine in a regular vintage, this may mean a too ripe style, but in this case (Goisot is close to Chablis) and in my opinion, we have just moved stylistically closer to the Burgundy heartland that is usual for Côtes d’Auxerre. I definitely liked them.

2016 Bourgogne Aligoté
Grape variety: Aligoté. 11 months in steel tank.

Rather fruity nose with apple, pear, some green notes, hints of smoke, and some minerality. Dry on the palate with a good minerality, rather high acidity, apple, some green notes, and an aftertaste with green apple and mineral. 85-86 p.

This was a more Saint-Bris-like Aligoté than what I’ve encountered before, i.e., it shows some Sauvignon Blanc notes. The nose also reminded me somewhat of a Muscadet. The minerality is quite good. I noticed that there were those who rather this wine (even) higher  than I did, and considered it the most interesting of the four.

2016 Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula
Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc. 11 months in steel tank.

Noticeably fruity nose with gooseberry, ripe apple, hints of peach, and flowery notes. Dry palate with minerality, green apple, some pear, rather high acidity, and a mineral-dominated aftertaste where we also find green apple. Could benefit from a shorter period of cellaring, 87(+)-88(+) p.

This wine shows good ripeness in the nose but a cooler palate, which is why I think it could respond positively to some cellaring. In this vintage, this wine came across as less Riesling-like than usual.

2015 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Corps de Garde
Grape variety: Chardonnay. 16 months in oak barrels, of which 10% new.

Nose with ripe yellow fruit, yellow plum, citrus, pear, well integrated oak notes, and some minerality. A classical white Burgundy nose. Palate with a good concentration, yellow apple, yellow plum, mineral, some spices, rather high acidity, and a fruity aftertaste with mineral. Rather young, but approachable now, 89(+) p.

In this vintage, the style is even a bit more “general white Burgundy” and less “slightly oaked Chablis” than usual. This is a wine with good weight, and it is more accessible than the Gueules de Loup.

The Corps de Garde range represents the non-vineyard designated terroir wines from Goisot, named after a watch tower at the domaine. They are the “mid level” of the Goisot range.

2015 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Gueules de Loup
Grape variety: Chardonnay. 16 months in oak barrels, of which 20% new.

Nose with ripe yellow fruit, mineral, light smokiness, well integrated oak notes, and flowery notes. Palate with good concentration, yellow plum, ripe apple, rather high acidity, and perfume notes. Young, should preferably be cellared, 89+/90(+) p.

More Côte de Beaune-style than the previous wine, and Gueules de Loup shows more smoke and mineral, but is also more discrete at present. To me, this indicates that it should be cellared.

Gueules de Loup is one of three vineyard-designated Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre in Goisot’s range of Chardonnay wines. The other two are Biaumont and Gondonne.

Swedish version here.

Posted in Aligoté, Burgundy, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc | 2 Comments

Champagne village profile: Courthiézy on the left bank of the Marne valley

Key facts

Located in subregion / area: Vallée de la Marne / Vallée de la Marne Rive Gauche
Vineyards and grape varieties: 37.2 hectares (91.9 acres), of which 80% Pinot Meunier, 17% Pinot Noir, and 3% Chardonnay.
Classification: “Autre cru” (83%)

Maps

The map is linked from Wikimedia Commons, and the geographical information originates from OpenStreetMap. The dotted white area corresponds to the vineyards, light yellow is other open terrain, orange is built-up areas, and green indicates forest. The dashed red line in the left-hand part of the map is the departmental border between Marne (where Courthiézy is located) and Aisne.


Google Maps view with the villages in the Vallée de la Marne Rive Gauche highlighted.

Clicking on a village opens a field to the left with a link to the village profile.

Neighbouring villages

On the right bank of Marne
Northnortheast: Trélou-sur-Marne (part of the Terroir de Condé)
Northwest: Passy-sur-Marne (part of the Terroir de Condé)

On the left bank of Marne
East: Dormans
Southeast: La Chapelle-Monthodon (part of the Vallée de la Marne Ouest)
South: Saint-Agnan (part of the Vallée de la Marne Ouest)
West: Reuilly-Sauvigny (part of the Vallée de la Marne Ouest)
Comment: more links will be added when profiles of the other villages have been uploaded.

Vineyards in Courthiézy and surrounding villages. To the left the church in Courthiézy and in the distance vineyards on the opposite side of the Marne river, in the communes Trélou-sur-Marne (to the right) and Passy-sur-Marne (to the left). The picture was taken from the east side of the village, looking northwest. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons (photo Pline, 2012).

The village

Courthiézy is located on the left bank of the Marne river, which means south of the river. Courthiézy is the westernmost village which is located in the Marne department. This also means that it is the westernmost village which is included in the area Vallée de la Marne Rive Gauche. Downstream (to the west), we move into the areas Terroir de Condé and Vallée de la Marne Ouest.

The Courthiézy commune covers 589 hectares and has 363 inhabitants (as of 2015), referred to as Courthiéziens and Courthiéziennes. The French name of the village is derived from its Latin name, Curtesiacum.

Vineyards

The vineyards in Courthiézy are located to the east and southeast of the village, in a block continuous with vineyards in Dormans. The bulk of the vineyards consist of mild north- to northwest-facing slopes. To the southeast of the village, there are some west-facing vineyards with a higher elevation. The vineyards are dominated by Pinot Meunier.

The current vineyard surface in the Courthiézy commune is 37.2 hectares (91.9 acres). There are 29.7 ha Pinot Meunier (79.8%), 6.3 ha Pinot Noir (16.9%), and 1.2 ha Chardonnay (3.2%). Numbers from CIVC, as of 2013. In 1997, the vineyard surface was 32 ha. There are 52vineyard owners (exploitants) in the commune.

Champagne producers

Champagne growers

Producer status is indicated where known: RM = récoltant-manipulant, or grower-producers. RC = récoltant-coopérateur, growers that are cooperative members but sell Champagnes under their own name.

  • Lerglantier Père et Fille (RC, Facebook page) with the company name Sylvie Malgras-Lerglantier.

Comment: the list may be incomplete.

A drawing of the landscape in Courthiézy from 1887, artist unknown. Picture linked from Wikimedia Commons.

Links

© Tomas Eriksson 2018

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Suenen – a high-class blanc de blancs Champagne producer

Last week I tasted some Champagnes from Suenen, a producer located in Cramant in the Côte de Blancs part of Champagne, and part of the range sold by Caviste. Since 2009, Suenen is run by Aurélien Suenen, following the premature passing away of his father. Aurélien has put his mark on the range by progressively phasing out the old cuvées while concentrating the vineyard holdings to Côte des Blancs. Other than Cramant, there are also vineyards in Chouilly and Oiry, all three villages classified grand cru.

Starting from the 2013 vintage, two new non-vintage blanc de blancs were introduced, using grapes from different villages: Oiry and C+C, where the latter originates from Cramant and Chouilly. (They replaced a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs from all three villages, a vintage blanc de blancs, and effectively also a Réserve using Pinots Noir & Meunier from Montigny-sur-Vesle.) These were the two Champagnes I tasted. Although they are non-vintage the base vintage is indicated on the label. Supposedly, some not yet released single vineyard-designated Champagnes are also resting in Suenen’s cellar.

By the way, don’t be fooled by the spread-out vineyard holdings. This small domaine only has a bit over 2 hectares of vineyards, and the production a regular year is some 15-16 000 bottles (yes, bottles, not cases).

I must admit that I really like that Suenen uses an excerpt from the 1944 Larmat Champagne vineyard map on their labels. Below the map from C+C. If the map style seems familiar this is probably because other excerpts in black and white have been used by Jacquesson for their vineyard-designated wines.

The production philosophy is characterised by organic cultivation, low yields, a well-judged use of oak barrel vinification (combined with steel tanks) and very low dosage, max 2 g/l. The result is firm and elegant blanc de blancs with very fine minerality, of the smoky kind, that come across as serious and well made. There is definitely a bit of similarity to white Burgundies. There are good concentration of aromas and depth in the modern Suenen cuvées, but the impression is rather dominated by mineral and firmness than the weight found in some small growers with a “cult” following, such as Selosse or Ulysse Collin. Apparently, Suenen has learnt from Agrapart, an excellent Avize producer, and to some extent this is reflected in the style. However, Suenen Champagnes aren’t quite as “hard” as those of Agrapart, but this could be due to the village(s) of origin. (Champagnes from Avize tend to be “harder” in general than those of the villages where Suenen’s vineyards are located.) I think that the Suenen Champagnes will develop very well with some years of cellaring.

Oiry Blanc de Blancs (base vintage 2014, disgorged June 2017)

Tasted Feb 2018:
Nose with ripe green apples, mineral, discrete notes of yellow plums in the background, slightly flowery with white flowers, elegant. Definitely dry palate with a lot of mineral, some mineral bitterness, citrus, green apples, high acidity, and an aftertaste with green apples and mineral. Young, fine precision and good minerality, 90(+) p.

More accessible than C+C from the same base year. It was said that the bottle had been more mineral dominated when freshly opened (as when I tasted it in November, see below).

Tasted Nov 2017:
Nose with mineral and “Puligny mineral feeling”, apple, and bass notes that indicate weight. The palate is definitely dry with some apple, mineral, and good acidity. A style without compromise and dominated by mineral. Young, 90+ p.

C+C (base vintage 2014, disgorged June 2017)

Tasted Feb 2018:
Nose with smoke, noticeable mineral notes, ripe apples – green and yellow, some spice notes and bass notes. Palate with dominating intense minerality, good concentration, fruit in the background and in particular apples, high acidity, long aftertaste. Young, 92(+) p.

A big wine with more concentration and intensity than the Oiry of the same base vintage. Would be very interesting to follow with some years of development.

Oiry Blanc de Blancs (base vintage 2013)

Tasted Feb 2018:
Nose with mineral, green apples, and some citrus. Dry palate with mineral, green apples, rather good concentration, and an aftertaste with unripe green apple. Young, 89 p.

Compared to Oiry base 2014, this base 2013 is a bit more “pointy” and dominated by acidity.

C+C (base vintage 2013)

Tasted Nov 2017:
Nose with smoky mineral notes, yellow fruit including citrus and hints of tropical fruit. Dry palate with fruit notes including citrus and some peach, good concentration, mineral, and good acidity. Young, 90(+) p.

Compared to Oiry base 2014 (tasted at the same occasion) this shows more weight, more fruity in nose and palate, but not as intense minerality.

In both cases my opinion is that the Champagnes with the 2014 base vintage are better than those with 2013 base vintage, and come across as possessing a bit more weight. This is not what I expected since 2013 has a bit better reputation in general. This may in part be because these new Champagnes from Suenen have become even better in their second release. In any case, they’re quite good both in their 2013 and 2014 versions!

Swedish version of this post.

Posted in Champagne, Chardonnay | 1 Comment

Ferdinando Principiano including an excellent 2013 Barolo

French-Swedish online wine dealer Caviste also sells wines from the Piemontese producer Ferdinando Principiano. I tasted the last release in late October, as well as the corresponding wines in 2015 and 2016.

I repeat what I wrote in 2015: Principiano is a producer who have worked for both traditionalists and modernists, and for a time in the 1990s he produced his own modernist wines, which means wines with powerful concentration built on vinification using a lot of extraction, small oak barrels, and quite a bit of new oak. In the early 2000s, he changed his views and aimed for a more non-interventionist style and lighter wines. This means that he comes close to the traditionalists, but I get the impression that his style is more “light and polished” than what may come to mind when some hear the term Piedmontese traditionalist, and several of his wines are in a style that is approachable already on release. This impression still remains after tasting three years’ releases of the wines, but possibly the phrase “elegant and balanced style” should be added. Incidentally, the style of the wines are well aligned to the French wines sold by Caviste. The 2013 Barolo was really excellent!

2016 Dolcetto d’Alba Sant’ Anna
Grape variety: Dolcetto. 10 months in steel tanks, 12% alcohol.

Nose with dark cherries, a hint of tar, some spice. Palate with cherries, rather good concentration of berries, good acidity, rather noticeable tannins and some of the “slightly tough and rough” character typical for Dolcetto. Drinks well now with food, but shows sufficient tannic bite for me to think that it would do well with at least one year of cellaring, 85+ p.

This wine shows a cooler style, in particular on the palate, than the 2015 vintage, which was a ripe vintage that showed more fruit with some plums.

2015 Barbera d’Alba Laura
Grape variety: Barbera. 10 months in steel tanks, 13% alcohol.

Berry-dominated nose with cherries, some tar in the background, and lightly perfumed hints. Palate with cherries, definitely good concentration, rather hot fruit character on the palate, good acidity (but not “disturbingly” high), and some tannins well embedded in the fruit. Rather approachable already, 87 p.

Here, the ripe 2015 vintage has come through in the form of more fruit and a level of acidity which isn’t quite as prominent as often is the case with Barbera. The end result still is a fresh Barbera (unlike the more heavily oaked creations of this region, those that sometime express “Merlot envy”), but a wine which shows more berry notes and is less demanding than usual. To me (and I more frequently drink Nebbiolo d’Alba than Barbera d’same and prefer the former), this results in a more pleasant wine although there may be Barbera purists out there who possess well-tanned palates and prefer the cooler vintages with more demanding acidityr. 🙂

2013 Barolo Serralunga
Grape variety: Nebbiolo, from young vines. Raised 24 months in big oak vats (botti) of 2000-4000 liters, 13,5% alcohol.

Very elegant nose with red berries – cranberries and strawberries, flowery and perfumed notes with in particular white flowers, and hints of tar. A distinctly classical nose in the almost Burgundian and “Pinoty” way. Palate with red berries, cranberries and strawberries, an almost “crystalline” minerality (yes, I know it can be difficult to figure out what this means but this was the association that came into my mind, rather than chalky or stony…), quite good acidity, smooth and polished mouthfeel, noticeable but at the same time polished tannins, as well as a balanced and polished aftertaste. Young but fresh and balanced, and therefore possible to enjoy already if decanted, 92+ p.

These tasting notes are based on a sample that had spent a couple of hours in a decanter. A sample from a freshly opened bottle was similar in the nose, but more closed on the palate, with more prominent tannins and less minerality. But I suppose that all that are used to Piemontese wines already know that if you can’t keep you paws away from a young Barolo, thorough decanting is to be recommended?

As I mentioned, this an exceptionally fine wine for its price. This is an elegant rather than a powerful Barolo that is classical in an accessible interpretation. By that I mean that the tannins are less tough than could be expected for a wine originating from the Serralunga d’Alba village (which tends give tougher wines than e.g. La Morra). The excellent 2013 vintage interacts with producer style of Principiano in a very pleasant way! This vintage is on the cool side, with good acidity and freshness. The previous vintage with a similar profile was 2010. 2011 was more on the hot side (but not massively so), 2012 wasn’t as good but produce “charming” wines that are accessible young. 2014 isn’t very good in Barolo (but more than OK in Barbaresco), and 2015 is on the hot side.

Swedish version of this post.

Posted in Barbera, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, Piedmont | 1 Comment